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Monkey Poop
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By Tapawingo
Jun 5, 2012

So....what is with the three deuces dropped on the bohn street ledge and up at the nose of monkey face?

Also, whats with the stick clips at Smith, can someone fill me in?


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By Max Tepfer
From Bend, OR
Jun 5, 2012

I'll bite. (though I can't speak to the turds. That's gross and unfortunate)

Stickclips are commonly used at Smith. (due to the frequently dangerous landings if you blow it moving to or past the first bolt) This is common practice at sport climbing areas all over the world. Locals will also usually cache them in unobtrusive places to avoid the hassle of hiking with them.

I'm sure some purist would complain about stashing them, but if you've ever been to Smith on a peak day, you know there's now wilderness experience to be had on the front side anyway (this is typically the only place they're ever cached)


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By JoeR
From Eugene, OR
Jun 6, 2012

Poop on Monkey Face? This has to be a joke.Bohn St. and the Nose Boulder are so exposed, you'd think someone would see it happening. Did you get a picture of the offending poo?


As for the stick clips, the reasoning is this: When many of these routes went in, the ground was much higher than it is now. There used to be grass and sagebrush at the bottoms of many of these climbs keeping the sandy dirt in place, but those were trampled out pretty quickly by the endless hordes. More true in the well traveled areas.

Combine the lack of willingness to take ankle breaking falls with the base of a climb being lower than when it first went in, stick-clips are widely accepted and used at Smith.

I've heard many people comment on the "start-cruxes" at Smith. Erosion is the reason for this as well. The first moves often don't represent the difficulty of a climb accurately.


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By Tapawingo
Jun 6, 2012

No joke about the mud falcons perched on monkey face, even some of the guides we're talking about it at the bivy site. Didn't let it ruin my experience, just made the belay ledge below bohn a little less aesthetic.

Thanks for the beta on the stick clips, wasn't busting anyones balls about it just seemed to be much more commonplace than other sport crags I have visited. I even saw a couple people hauling them on multi-pitch.


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