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|Be sure to park along the paved road, and NOT on the private driveways!|
Start on the lowest jugs you can find on the left hand side of the scoop. Make thuggy (and very easy) moves up to a jug in the roof and hit two opposing sidepulls (right hand can be used as a pinch. A high foot helps the next move up and left go static and better holds follow. Keep it together for the moderate but tall topout and move along. A long arm span makes this problem considerably easier. Great boulder problem!
Couple of pads will protect the crux but don't pitch from the top.
BETA PHOTO: Matt Johnson on the start holds of "Monkey Pinch"
John Starr on Hyperglide V4/V5. Dec 2011
|By Jack Kearney|
May 30, 2011
pretty sure this route is called hyperglide and it's in the new book as v4/5, but still an awesome line