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 ADVANCED
Monkey Face
Select Route:
Astro Monkey T 
Backbone, The S 
East Face T 
Just Do It S 
Monkey Off My Back S 
Monkey Space S 
North Face, The T 
Northwest Passage (Aid) T 
Pioneer Route T,S 
Rising Expectations T 
Spank the Monkey S 
West Face (Aid) T 
West Face Variation T 
West Face Variation Direct T 

Monkey Off My Back 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ryan Lawson, Thomas Emde February 10, 2002
Page Views: 3,257
Submitted By: Laurel Fan on Jun 28, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Jon from Hood River savoring Monkey Off My Back, 5...

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Description 

Last pitch variation for Pioneer Route/West Face. Out of the mouth, start at the first bolt for Panic Point and trend right instead of straight up. This route ends at the summit rap anchor instead of the nose boulder.

Listed as 5.8 in Smith Rock Select and 5.9 in the new Watts book.

Protection 

sport, 8 bolts


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By Adam Volwiler
Jun 20, 2011
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

The West Face variation linked up with this as a final pitch is the way to go. You don't have to deal with the goofy boulder at the top of the 5.7 since Monkey Off My Back ends at the top. The exposure was awesome, you feel like you are climbing on the side of some kind of floating boulder. This was the best 5.9 I had done in a long time. One 5.9ish move and the rest was pretty cake.
By Jason Albino
From: San Francisco, CA
May 10, 2013

Totally agree - you've probably grunted up the bolt ladder pitch to the mouth to get here, so don't cheat yourself on the best part by proceeding straight up the standard, discontinuous 5.7 line. Moving right onto this variation extends your time on the awesome exposed face, and it's really well bolted.
By B-Mkll
From: Bozeman, MT
May 27, 2014

Thought I was actually on the 5.7 pitch of the Pioneer for this line until I topped out and thought... "wait a second, wasn't there supposed to be another pitch?"

Truly amazing positioning and exposure, great holds and great movement. I can't imagine for a second that the standard Pioneer is in fact better. Do this variation if you've made it up the bolt ladder. Just do it.