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Monkey Face
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Astro Monkey 
Backbone, The 
East Face 
Monkey Off My Back 
Monkey Space 
North Face, The 
Northwest Passage (Aid) 
Pioneer Route 
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Spank the Monkey 
West Face (Aid) 
West Face Variation 
West Face Variation Direct 

Monkey Off My Back 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ryan Lawson, Thomas Emde February 10, 2002
Page Views: 2,379
Submitted By: Laurel Fan on Jun 28, 2010
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Jon from Hood River savoring Monkey Off My Back, 5...
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Last pitch variation for Pioneer Route/West Face. Out of the mouth, start at the first bolt for Panic Point and trend right instead of straight up. This route ends at the summit rap anchor instead of the nose boulder.

Listed as 5.8 in Smith Rock Select and 5.9 in the new Watts book.


sport, 8 bolts

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By Adam Volwiler
Jun 20, 2011
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c

The West Face variation linked up with this as a final pitch is the way to go. You don't have to deal with the goofy boulder at the top of the 5.7 since Monkey Off My Back ends at the top. The exposure was awesome, you feel like you are climbing on the side of some kind of floating boulder. This was the best 5.9 I had done in a long time. One 5.9ish move and the rest was pretty cake.

By Jason Albino
From: San Francisco, CA
May 10, 2013

Totally agree - you've probably grunted up the bolt ladder pitch to the mouth to get here, so don't cheat yourself on the best part by proceeding straight up the standard, discontinuous 5.7 line. Moving right onto this variation extends your time on the awesome exposed face, and it's really well bolted.