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Monkey Mayhem 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a [details]
FA: 2005
Page Views: 2,073
Submitted By: James Ging on Oct 28, 2009
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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Allie, on her fist climb ever, wondering why peopl...

Description 

Clean, easy climbing, good warmup or first lead. Nice and shaded, with only afternoon sun. Not quite vertical with the classic malibu pockets.


Location 

Route starts across from Guerrilla Drilla on the ledge. Obvious first bolt and less than vertical wall mark the spot.


Protection 

5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. As the route starts on a ledge, you really don't want to fall before the first bolt.



Photos of Monkey Mayhem Slideshow Add Photo
Gerry doing an easy lead up Monkey Mayhem.
Gerry doing an easy lead up Monkey Mayhem.
Route
BETA PHOTO: Route
First climb, ever, for this young lady.
First climb, ever, for this young lady.
Comments on Monkey Mayhem Add Comment
Show which comments
By Levy
From: Reseda, CA
Nov 25, 2009
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III VD 3a

This is the easiest lead at Malibu Creek S.P. It is only about 5.3. Fine for beginners & new leaders, it can easily be climbed in regular shoes.

By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Dec 3, 2009

Putting new climbers on a route this chossy is just plain mean for the belayer. I'd wear football pads and a full helmet if I were you.

By John Moore
May 2, 2011

Where is this route? Any photos anywhere? I'm looking for an easy first lead route and this sounds pretty good. I know where Chopping Block is. Where is this route from Chopping Block? Thanks... John

By Clay Zamperini
From: Tarzana, CA
May 6, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a

John, I don't know where it is relative to chopping block (only climbed malibu once, and didn't have a guidebook), but if you're in the Stumbling Blocks area, head east past all the 5.10/5.11 climbs (back towards the trail) and there's a big slabby wall that borders the creek. You belay from a cliffside area with a big oak tree growing out of it. Can't miss it.

Definitely a good first lead, really easy, but since it's kind of exposed you really don't want to miss the first bolt and tumble off the cliff (you're belaying 20-30 feet above the creek floor).

Hope this helps.

By Brian Hench
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Aug 23, 2011
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c

It may have been chossy at one time, but has cleaned up nicely. A good beginner lead.

By Brent Kelly
Dec 30, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b PG13

LOCATION
The route is on your left as you scramble up into the pseduo-canyon. Scramble up an exposed (30 ft tumble if you slip) mini-ledge to the first bolt. The route starts directly up from the right edge gulley of the belay ledge.

BEWARE
Pretty easy and decently fun BUT you definitely want to be attentive on this route.

I knocked off two baseball sized pieces of choss on a casual lead, narrowly missing my belayer. One actually hit her foot. Be attentive.

By Brent Kelly
Dec 30, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b PG13

Also, catches afternoon sun about halfway up.

Looked like a nice ledge above the chains. Would be fun to belay from above and have lunch. Great view.

By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jun 22, 2013

Agree with Levy regarding the suitability of approach shoes for leading "Monkey Mayhem," but the rating is closer to 5.5