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 ADVANCED
North Cliffband
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Back to Montana S,TR 
Cochiti Classic T 
Cochiti Ugly T,TR 
Empty and Meaningless S 
Feminist Men S 
Grunge Up the Munge T 
Gunning for the Buddha S 
Holy Wars S,TR 
La Espina S,TR 
Laurel's Climb S 
Monkey Lust S 
Montana Deviate T,S 
Mr. Toad's Wild Ride T,TR 
Napoleon Blown-Apart S 
Open Mouth Syndrome (OMS) S 
Pickpocket S 
Praise the Lunge S 
Thief Crack T 
Thief in Time S 
To Catch A Thief S 
Touch Monkey S 
Unknown S 
Unknown - Boulder Left S 

Monkey Lust 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dan Parks, Adam Read 5/88
Page Views: 865
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 6, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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BETA PHOTO: Another view of Monkey Lust, which begins atop a l...

Description 

This is apparently the "warmup" for the North Mesa. Unfortunately this route looks a lot better than it is. Extremely short, with about 10 feet of really fun, juggy climbing, to a slabby, slopey, technical (for the grade) arete finish.

Also, the Offwidth approach detracts significantly. What better way to warm up than by thrutching up a sandy shoot in your pink lycra?


Location 

This route begins atop the "Giant Boulder" down and left from Touch Monkey. Begin by scrambling awkwardly up the offwidth on the right (SE) corner of the boulder. Its probably most convenient if only the climber surmounts the boulder. The belayer can belay from the base of the boulder, just right of La Espina. Also its best to lower off the boulder (from the Monkey Lust anchor) rather than try to downclimb the OW.


Protection 

4 Bolts, 2 bolt anchor.



Photos of Monkey Lust Slideshow Add Photo
Crappy picture of Monkey Lust. Will replace with a better pic once I return (which will hopefully be very soon).
BETA PHOTO: Crappy picture of Monkey Lust. Will replace with a...
Last November (yes November!) TRing Monkey Lust for the first time.
Last November (yes November!) TRing Monkey Lust fo...
Comments on Monkey Lust Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Aug 17, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Four bolts to a two-bolt anchor. The anchors, as well as the first and fourth bolts have been replaced with 1/2, glued-in bolts. The second bolt wobbles slightly, but the third, even though it's older, is still solid. Thanks to whomever is investing their time and effort to keeping this place safe and in good shape.

By tim naylor
Sep 5, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

thanks for the work. I climbed this six years ago and thought the bolts were bad then!

By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 17, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

One better choice than the offwidth start is to climb one of the "boulder routes" Laurel's Climb or Unknown - Boulder Left instead to get to the big balcony ledge below the steep bolted section.

By Scott Beguin
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 2, 2010

The second bolt is suspect and needs to be replaced asap. I would not recommend a fall on this bolt as it is sticking out of the rock almost two inches, wiggles by hand, is a mega spinner, and the threads are stripped. This scared me worse than a bad ice screw. Comfort would be added with the use of a screamer.

By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
May 19, 2011

The second bolt is now missing, making for definite deck potential. I think you can get gear in the horizontal, so bring gear or don't fall.