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The Thaiwand
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Monkey Love 
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Solution 41 

Monkey Love 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Greg and Larissa Collum
Page Views: 875
Submitted By: caughtinside on Feb 28, 2007
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Leading up into the crux section of Monkey Love
Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

this is the route running just right of Organ Grinder. This route is 100% threads, not a single bolt! beginning is so so, on easy rock, but the end is some airy moves over space on big holds, fabulous stuff for the grade.


Location 

just right of the Organ Grinder (that tackles the right side of the overhanging cave) and left of Out of the Sticks, which starts above a cool ground level cave.


Protection 

all threads! in good shape as of 2/07



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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Oct 19, 2007

I believe it's 7 threads to the anchors.

By Clay Rardon
From: Morgantown, WV
Dec 28, 2007

great route, some of the slings need replacing as of 12/07, one of them broke during a fall mid-Dec, '07.

By Glen Charnoski
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 13, 2011

Lovely route! Stalagtite traverse overhang, bearing right. Exciting!

By Ming
Mar 16, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

The traverse from stalactite to stalactite is awesome. Cool and airy with big and secure holds. The anchor is bomber. There is a pitch that goes above it that I did that goes at about 10b ish. Delicate face climbing (and route finding) ending on an airy traverse out onto a small stalactite that finishes at a huge ledge with a solid anchor. Does anyone know what it is? There is also a 3rd pitch but that is solidly in the 11+ territory from the looks of it so I rapped down from there.