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Monkey in the Middle 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Stacy Temple, John Bronaugh - 1992
Page Views: 1,749
Submitted By: James Otey on Mar 25, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (71)
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This gives you an idea of how steep the route is. ...

Description 

Start off on the steeply overhanging (35 degree) line of jugs and pockets, cranking through relatively powerful moves on great holds. after a few bolts, the angle lessens and decent rests can be found. Though there aren't any ledges, there are a couple places where good body positioning will be rewarded with taking nearly all your weight off the forearms, which will undoubtedly be pretty pumped unless you climb 5.13. Efficient climbing, good footwork, and the ability to find rests are the secret to success on this classic line.

Location 

30 feet left of 'Geezers go Sport"

Protection 

8 Bolts


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By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Jun 26, 2009

This is an awesome, sustained, steep jug haul. Start on very steep wall, climb a couple of bolts worth of vertical, take your rest and climb the rest of the way up an overhanging headwall. Super fun climbing, jugs everywhere you place a hand.
By Stefano Prezioso
From: Detroit, MI
Mar 9, 2012

I believe this is 9 bolts, not 8.
By Andrew1986
Oct 22, 2012

Agree 9 bolts to anchors. Came up one short this weekend.
By Jeff Edge
Aug 18, 2013

Somebody chalked "Wasp at anchors" at the start, but I didn't find any. Although there were a few buzzing around off to the left a little bit, I guess they must've moved. Great route, technical crux seemed to be right at the start