Monkey in the Forest
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.3 from 6 votes
Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 1,911 total · 14/month |
Shared By: | rob bauer on Oct 1, 2012 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
2023 info: jeffco.us/1531/Alerts-Closures
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
Description
This is not my route, but since I just did at least half of it, I thought I'd put it in the database. Most of us have walked past this and thought "it looks good, we'll do it on the way down."
A mix of gear gets you to the diagonal hand to thin fingers crux above the pod. Grunt through to a so-so jam and then up to where the angle kicks back. Protect with #1 Camalots to the tree (where I rapped). The crack continues up and right toward the arete, but the Cynical Pinnacle. shows it just going up the headwall. Others will have to comment whether there are anchors on top and which is the best way.
A mix of gear gets you to the diagonal hand to thin fingers crux above the pod. Grunt through to a so-so jam and then up to where the angle kicks back. Protect with #1 Camalots to the tree (where I rapped). The crack continues up and right toward the arete, but the Cynical Pinnacle. shows it just going up the headwall. Others will have to comment whether there are anchors on top and which is the best way.
Location
This route is #1 on the Cynical Pinnacle. . The route is on the lower buttress in front of the 'Pinnacle proper; you have to walk around this to enter the alcove to start Center Route. There are two obvious cracks you'll see on this lower wall, Monkey is on the left.
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