Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Aidan Maguire
Page Views: 1,983 total · 15/month
Shared By: Justin Johnsen on Feb 19, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


5 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

A short low 5th class scramble gets you a large ledge system, the start of the route (as well as the bolted 5.9 to the left, and 5.11ish crack in a dihedral to the right).

Starts on a flake, where one could place small trad pro to keep it well protected. It leaves this soon, follows low profile knobs up and somewhat right - just follow the bolt line. The hardest moves are naturally right after each bolt (four total). The crux follows crossing a horizontal crack, and higher up, a tiny roof. The angle gradually lessens until the anchor is on a comfortable slab - but this make rope drag unavoidable if toproping. The anchor is shared with Swallow Tail (Swallow's Tale?).

We thought the crux might be 5.10d or 5.11a. Or maybe that's another route I saw nearby online called the Wanker 5.11a?

Location Suggest change

Right side of the East Face, past the East Chimney, Morticia and Lurch. The routes here start a short easy climb/scramble above the trail, and aren't apparent if you're not watching for them.

After climbing, rap off anchors and chains shared with all three adjacent routes. Exactly 30 meters brings you to the rap anchors/chains at the bottom of Swallow Tail. It's a short rap from here back to trail level, unless you're very comfortable down climbing the 5.easy terrain below this.

Protection Suggest change

Four bolts, a couple of small cracks for trad pro, a couple of knobs and horns big enough to sling.

Photos

- No Photos -
loading