|Sugarloaf, East Face
A short low 5th class scramble gets you a large ledge system, the start of the route (as well as the bolted 5.9 to the left, and 5.11ish crack in a dihedral to the right).
Starts on a flake, where one could place small trad pro to keep it well protected. It leaves this soon, follows low profile knobs up and somewhat right - just follow the bolt line. The hardest moves are naturally right after each bolt (four total). The crux follows crossing a horizontal crack, and higher up, a tiny roof. The angle gradually lessens until the anchor is on a comfortable slab - but this make rope drag unavoidable if toproping. The anchor is shared with Swallow Tail (Swallow's Tale?).
I took the name, grade and FA from another place online - please correct if I have them wrong. I thought I remembered this being Jerry's route, so maybe his name also belongs there. We thought the crux might be 5.10d or 5.11a. Or maybe that's another route I saw nearby online called the Wanker 5.11a?
Right side of the East Face, past the East Chimney, Morticia and Lurch. The routes here start a short easy climb/scramble above the trail, and aren't apparent if you're not watching for them.
After climbing, rap off anchors and chains shared with all three adjacent routes. Exactly 30 meters brings you to the rap anchors/chains at the bottom of Swallow Tail. It's a short rap from here back to trail level, unless you're very comfortable down climbing the 5.easy terrain below this.
Four bolts, a couple of small cracks for trad pro, a couple of knobs and horns big enough to sling.
|By Colonel Mustard|
From: Reno, NV
Jan 11, 2014
My partner and I agreed, this is a high quality addition to the Loaf. Micro cams for the initial seam, then placed a yellow/green offset alien and yellow offset nut at the horizontal break just after the second bolt (a number two or three camalot may work in the larger pod). A number one camalot fit behind the route's one detracting feature in a rotten flake (perhaps placing one more bolt would be in order to avoid this potential hazard?).
Thoughtful face climbing with interesting balance moves and some high foot mantle action typify the route. Much longer than it appears from the ground!
The scramble up is one you may or may not want rope for. I didn't want to down climb it though, so the rap anchor is appreciated!