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 ADVANCED
Rock Springs Buttress
Routes Sorted
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Blimpie T,S 
Box Car Arete S 
Clowns and Jokers T,S 
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Direct Start to Exum Arete S 
Do It For Doug S 
Exum Arete T,S 
Going Ghandi S 
Grand Central S 
Hobo Rat Race S 
Ire' Tower T 
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Live to Ski S 
Monkey Flower S 
Mule Skinner S 
Rasberry Arete S 
Sole Super Power S 
Tolle Route (aka Guide's Route) T 
Triple Roofs T 
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Unsorted Routes:

Monkey Flower 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 125'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Tom Hargis, Bill Dyer 2001
Season: Morning shade
Page Views: 1,925
Submitted By: Andy Laakmann on Jun 17, 2006

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Starting Monkey Flower

Description 

Warning: a 70m rope required to rap or toprope off the anchors!!

This is a popular route, both because of its grade and the fact that it is the first moderate route reached on the approach trail. The climbing is a times awkward, and the bolts somewhat out-of-reach, but the position and length of the pitch make the climb worthwhile in the end. The rock is still a little loose, so take care and wear a helmet.

Beginning at the bottom of a huge left facing corner, this route climbs up and left and heads directly up the huge headwall above the roof. The climbing isn't super difficult, but the unpredictable nature of the holds, awkward moves, and length of the route slowly build to a nice pump.


Location 

The approach trail hits the cliff right at this route. It begins at the bottom of a huge, left facing corner with undesirable looking rock. Begin up this corner to reach the first bolt to the left, then start trending up and left to the next bolts.


Protection 

Bolts - approximately 10. Chain anchor. This climb is a little sporty a times, particularly clipping the first bolt.



Photos of Monkey Flower Slideshow Add Photo
The big view of Monkey Flower.  Note the hang gliders in the distance!
The big view of Monkey Flower. Note the hang glid...
Halfway up Monkey Flower.  Unknown climber.
Halfway up Monkey Flower. Unknown climber.
Amanda Moyer belaying Ken Jern on Monkeyflower. The crux second pitch of Triple Roofs can be seen above and slightly right of Moyer.
Amanda Moyer belaying Ken Jern on Monkeyflower. Th...
Comments on Monkey Flower Add Comment
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By bill dyer
Nov 24, 2008

Correction
F.A.Pitch#one: Doug Coombs/Bill Dyer
F.A.Pitch#two: Tom Hargis/Bill Dyer

By Daniel Nelson
From: Jackson, WY
Oct 29, 2013

Intimidating traverse to start to thin face climbing - very sequency with some of the best holds difficult to pick out on initial look. No one move is harder than 5.10a, but felt very sustained. A tad run-out. Hit up Birthday Suit further down the Buttress for a more cruiser 5.10a. I've done easier 10b/c than this. None of the above takes away from the high quality.