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This prominent tower is one the best known features at Smith rock. It's asthetic beauty is enhanced by the historical ascents and world famous routes on its clean faces. Monkey face still holds some of the hardest climbs in the world as well as a plethora of classic trad and sport lines. It's most famous route, Just Do It 5.14c is still a testpiece route for aspiring hardmen/women.
To approach you can take the hiking trail in either direction once you cross the bridge. Heading north provides a steeper but shorter approach. The seldom taken southward, scenic approach is much further but has less elevation gain and takes you all the way around the formation. Many approach by hiking past the main dihedrals, doing the scramble over asterik pass, and continuing on climbing trails heading north.
13 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Monkey Face
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Monkey Face:
West Face (Aid) Easy 5th 1+ 3 I M 1c C1 Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 400'
East Face 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b C2 Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 300'
Pioneer Route 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b C0 Trad, Sport, Aid, 3 pitches, 250'
Northwest Passage (Aid) 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b C2 Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 350'
West Face Variation Direct 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 2 pitches
West Face Variation 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c C0 Trad, Aid, 5 pitches, 300'
Monkey Off My Back 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch
Monkey Space 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 2 pitches, 100'
Astro Monkey 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a Trad, 6 pitches
The North Face 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Spank the Monkey 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
The Backbone 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c Sport, 4 pitches, 400'
Featured Route For Monkey Face
West Face (Aid) Easy 5th 1+ 3 I M 1c C1 OR : Smith Rock : Monkey Face
This climb also goes free at 5.12a A1.P1 - C1+ or 12a A0- Start on the western point of the monkey at a 5 bolt bolt ladder. Then aid the crack at C1, cam hooks and offset nuts are usefull here, clip a few more bolts, then mantel onto ledge. 3 bolt Anchor at small ledge. P2 - A1 - Aid the bolts to sling belay. P3 - easy 5th C1 or 5.12a - Aid more bolts to a scramble into the big west face cave. P4 - 5.4 C1 or 5.11B - Aid out of the cave on bolts to some free to the summit. Descent: Rap down to t...[more] Browse More Classics in OR
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