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Monkey Face route with no aid climbing
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By Burk S.
From Lebanon, Oregon
Jun 20, 2012
I am looking to climb Monkey Face sometime this summer. I would like to stick to the 5.8 West side route, but is it possible to climb it without aid climbing? Also, is there a place where this route is detailed better than it is on MP (i.e. with pictures). Thanks!

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By Conor Byrne
Jun 20, 2012
the easiest free route up monkey face is Monkey Space 5.11b. the route starts at Bohn Street and can be accessed from either the southeast side (standard start to pioneer route) or from the west face variation 5.8

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By Peter Rakowitz
From Portland, OR
Jun 20, 2012
Karl and me hanging out under the bolt ladder.
The Smith Rock guide book is a good place to start. If you don't have one most Multnomah County LIbraries do.

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By rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
Jun 20, 2012
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protect between Bolt 2/3 just post crux . <br /> <br />Picture credit goes to eric Singleton, and many thanks to Josh Bagget for the great belay.
i believe that the A0 bolt ladder has gone free at 5.13 no easy free climbing way up. Just bring a set of speed aiders and you'll be fine.

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By Leeroy
Jun 20, 2012
If you can't handle the bolt ladder getting into the mouth then you probably should find something in the Dihedrals to climb and stay off the Monkey. Probably want to avoid the entire west side.

Or maybe learn how to stand up in a sling.

As far as details about the Monkey...have you tried Google? You'll be amazed at what you'll find with a little searching.

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