|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 45'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA:||Tony Yaniro, 1974|
|Submitted By:||Bo Johnston on Feb 22, 2006|
|Comments on Monkey Business||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 16, 2007
I used two peices - 3.5 camalot and a 3.0 further to the left before turning the lip. The 3.5 was perfect but a 4.0 would work well too. After the lip the route eases through some large blocks and no pro is really needed other than for the anchor.
Speaking of anchor, I set one on a large flat shelf just up from the blocks. When it came to decending there are a few choices.
1) - scramble up and behind the Monkey Business to the top of a bolted route (wage & price ceiling?) to the right which has chain anchors.
2) - drape your rope around a large/fat horn like feature and rap off the west side over the large roof.
By Russ Walling
Feb 16, 2007
|Tip: Use your feet! A power undercling is not needed.... nice route!|
By Darren D.
Apr 12, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
|A cool fist crack roof. The crux seemed to be getting down. I down climbed from the middle of the route that susan is referring to in her #1 recommendation.|