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 ADVANCED
SW Face Right (Monkey Business Wall)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Maw, The S 
Monkey Business T 
Paw, The S 
Right Between the Eyes T 
Roofing Company T 
White Line Fever T 

Monkey Business 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tony Yaniro, 1974
Page Views: 1,179
Submitted By: Bo Johnston on Feb 22, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Susan slugging in some pro before heading out the ...

Description 

This exciting route is the rightmost of two prominent right facing roofs on the right side of Little Hunk's southwest end. At first glance, it would seem harder than its rating but after a closer look you'll see edges for your feet and an edge for crimping through the mid-roof crux. After pulling the roof a boulder is back behind the climb with a sling on it and a couple of rap rings. Not the best anchor but it works and drops you right back to the start of the route.

Location 

Just right of Roofing Company.

Protection 

This roof crack is really just one size throughout at a #3 to #4 camalot. I didn't have the fancier new camalots but a #3.5 would be perfect. A red alien will protect the crux if you can set it before committing to the move.


Photos of Monkey Business Slideshow Add Photo
John Dubrawski tops out on Roofing Company - cragcam
BETA PHOTO: John Dubrawski tops out on Roofing Company - cragc...
View from Little Hunk/Monkey Business
BETA PHOTO: View from Little Hunk/Monkey Business
Photo/topo for the Monkey Business Wall, Joshua Tree NP
BETA PHOTO: Photo/topo for the Monkey Business Wall, Joshua Tr...

Comments on Monkey Business Add Comment
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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 16, 2007

I used two peices - 3.5 camalot and a 3.0 further to the left before turning the lip. The 3.5 was perfect but a 4.0 would work well too. After the lip the route eases through some large blocks and no pro is really needed other than for the anchor.

Speaking of anchor, I set one on a large flat shelf just up from the blocks. When it came to decending there are a few choices.

1) - scramble up and behind the Monkey Business to the top of a bolted route (wage & price ceiling?) to the right which has chain anchors.

2) - drape your rope around a large/fat horn like feature and rap off the west side over the large roof.

~Susan
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Feb 16, 2007

Tip: Use your feet! A power undercling is not needed.... nice route!
By Darren D.
Apr 12, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A cool fist crack roof. The crux seemed to be getting down. I down climbed from the middle of the route that susan is referring to in her #1 recommendation.