|SW Face Right (Monkey Business Wall)
This exciting route is the rightmost of two prominent right facing roofs on the right side of Little Hunk's southwest end. At first glance, it would seem harder than its rating but after a closer look you'll see edges for your feet and an edge for crimping through the mid-roof crux. After pulling the roof a boulder is back behind the climb with a sling on it and a couple of rap rings. Not the best anchor but it works and drops you right back to the start of the route.
Just right of Roofing Company.
This roof crack is really just one size throughout at a #3 to #4 camalot. I didn't have the fancier new camalots but a #3.5 would be perfect. A red alien will protect the crux if you can set it before committing to the move.
BETA PHOTO: John Dubrawski tops out on Roofing Company - cragc...
BETA PHOTO: View from Little Hunk/Monkey Business
BETA PHOTO: Photo/topo for the Monkey Business Wall, Joshua Tr...
|By susan peplow|
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 16, 2007
I used two peices - 3.5 camalot and a 3.0 further to the left before turning the lip. The 3.5 was perfect but a 4.0 would work well too. After the lip the route eases through some large blocks and no pro is really needed other than for the anchor.
Speaking of anchor, I set one on a large flat shelf just up from the blocks. When it came to decending there are a few choices.
1) - scramble up and behind the Monkey Business to the top of a bolted route (wage & price ceiling?) to the right which has chain anchors.
2) - drape your rope around a large/fat horn like feature and rap off the west side over the large roof.
|By Russ Walling|
Feb 16, 2007
Tip: Use your feet! A power undercling is not needed.... nice route!
|By Darren D.|
Apr 12, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
A cool fist crack roof. The crux seemed to be getting down. I down climbed from the middle of the route that susan is referring to in her #1 recommendation.