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 ADVANCED
No Sweat
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Byrd aka No Sweat Overhang, The T 
Mongo Fury T,TR 
Mongo Mantle, The T,TR 
No Sweat T,TR 

Mongo Fury 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Barry Rugo and Arturo??
Season: Winter, Spring, Summer, and Fall - all you have to do is call...
Page Views: 622
Submitted By: Burt Lindquist on Sep 14, 2009

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Placing gear on the lead below the crux on Mongo F...

Description 

Sweet and very fun 30 feet of climbing positive but intense vertical to overhanging arete (and crack just right of arete) up into rest and big horizontals then final steep exit crack and edges. Crux is at mid height moving off positive horizontal hand match to pull on small side pull above to get into large jugs/ledges and protruding flake rest.

Location 

Next buttress back from and right of the "No Sweat" overhang route which is the first major climbable rock formation one comes to when walking up CCC trail from the East Bluff car park.

Protection 

Good to excellent small to medium wires and cams. There is a good placement about every 3 feet on this making it quite safe to lead. It is just very strenuous to place the gear needed at crux because it's above your head and above the nice positive horizontal hand match.


Photos of Mongo Fury Slideshow Add Photo
Mongo Fury takes the arete and crack just left of ...
BETA PHOTO: Mongo Fury takes the arete and crack just left of ...
Dmitriy pulling the crux move of Mongo Fury on lea...
Dmitriy pulling the crux move of Mongo Fury on lea...

Comments on Mongo Fury Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Sep 14, 2009

I'm so glad you added this Burt. It's a really great lead that is often overlooked.
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 14, 2009

Thanks Jay. I will post a few pictures as well soon. It is a very good lead I agree. The rock is really nice. Very good, hard, and satisfying climbing I think. I never knew this thing existed until you mentioned it a while back. I have been looking up at it ever since while walking by. I really like the 5.7/5.8ish thing around the corner to the left too. It is not named in the guidebook other then a number but it is well worth an onsight lead attempt I think.. Short as well but super fun and has nice textured rock plus just enough good gear placements.
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Oct 2, 2009

yo,me thinks the first lead of MONGO FURY was by Barry Rugo and Arturo ...a very long time ago.
By Tradoholic
Aug 20, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

I didn't see the pro in the crux and was forced to run this out to the rest. The rest is very good and sporty with a damn big jug to hang on. The lower pro was hard to place, what looks like a good nut could turn out poor, best to place a micro cam just above it to back it up.
By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Aug 20, 2011

You are right on Nick. That nut placement in the crack notch thing low down is not a very deep placement and could be a potential blow-out placement if fallen on hard (quite possible because not much rope out) and I have on every occasion backed it up with a blue power cam placement just above. The crux pro you missed is a very similar placement to one just mentioned but involves an even smaller wired nut so the possibility of blowing this placement is even greater....
Adding the PG gear rating is a good idea now that I think more about it...