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located far left on Broken Tooth. almost always shady. steep fingers,wide fingers goes into a slightly leaning, endless fist/rattly fist splitter. hard to see the anchors (which should probably be renovated).
(1ea.)#1 friend,.5,.75,1,2 camalot,(2ea.)#3,3.5 friends,(6-8)#4 friends. you can supplement with a few #4 camalots if #4 friends are in short supply.
Aug 24, 2012
not a crack climber but this looks like a lot of fun... maybe ill make this my first crack climb
|By Josh Ewing|
From: Bluff, UT
Nov 21, 2012
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX E6 6b
I hate to play the "hard size for my hand size" card, but this one felt ridiculously hard...much harder than at least three 5.13s at the Creek (Tricks, Optimator, Ruby's). I guess this is penance for all those thin hands cracks, which don't seem that hard. The crux move over the low roof seems just on the edge of possible, with the right-hand jam too rattly to really help. And the last 60 feet of new 4 camalots are just beyond rattly fists...requiring a lot of stacking with bad feet. One of the most aesthetic and challenging lines I've done anywhere.
Agreed that the anchor could use "modernization." I'll take the drill/bolts the next time I'm up there. But if someone beats me to it, let me know.