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Horse Rampart
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Between the Cheeks 
Horse with No Name 
Horse, The 
Moby Dick 
Mother Smucker's Jam 
Peanut Butter 
Primak's Surprise 
Pullman Car 
Roger's Roof 
Scavenger of Sorrow 
Sugar-free Jam 
Teetering Tower 
Teetering Tower Chimney 
Via Apia 
Woger's Woof Wightside 
Wolf Dog 


YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 253
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Mar 25, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: Monarch (4), The Horse (5), and Pullman Car (6)


Monarch is located near the inside corner/gully on the northwest-facing wall near the middle of the Horse Rampart formation. Start left of the big tree and climb up slab to the steeper wall above. Make your way into a shallow inside corner and follow it to a crack. Climb the crack to the top.


Standard Rack

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By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jun 2, 2008

A very chossy, awkward climb. One 5.9 move through the roof and it's over.

By Doug Hemken
Aug 29, 2011

I don't think I understand the rules for this route. I can make it either a hard 5.10 or a 5.8, depending on which holds I decide are on. What I don't find is a 5.9 - do I just not see it?

This route was once called "Nutscratcher" (S&Z 1970).

By Jeff Christbaum
From: Muskego, WI
Sep 2, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

We did this route today because it was there and we were too lazy to move the rope after climbing the Horse. Both of us actually liked it a lot more than everybody else. No problems at all with rock quality. The bottom slab went well and we pushed through the crack at the top. We weren't sure which of the two vertical crack lines to go for, so I went straight up over a small roof.