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Backhand Wall
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Triangulate T,S 

Moms Rock 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: JSt,EFR,GHu,'11
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,235
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Apr 8, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Geir Hundal where the forearms begin to scream.

Description 

Big air and generally big holds up an overhanging arete and out a big roof. Very cool.

Location 

First route left of Triangulate and two corners right of Family Affair.

Protection 

Bolts


Photos of Moms Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Steps to the right out of the weakness Geir is in near the small roof right above his head.  It then follows the arete/buttress up to the slot on the left side of the dark roof.  Anchors are on the ledge above.  You could clip a long sling to the anchors then continue all the way to the high anchors on Family Affair.  Two raps would get you down.
BETA PHOTO: Steps to the right out of the weakness Geir is in ...
Here's the way Moms Rock finishes.
Here's the way Moms Rock finishes.

Comments on Moms Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jimbo
Apr 8, 2011

This route is called "Moms Rock".

Thanks to Eric for doing the work, Geir for holding the rope, and
my mom for instilling in me my love of the outdoors and supporting my crazy climbing addiction throughout the years.

Now everyone get off the computer, go to the phone, call your mom and tell her you love her!
By Myk
From: tucson, az
Nov 30, 2011

Great Climb! Spent some time cleaning with a wire brush and it all seems pretty clean and solid now. Just needs some more trafic to turn into an awesome climb. Mostly 10ish with a nice 11 crux passing the last bolt. Great exposure and super fun. Thanks for putting it up.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
May 9, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Airy and exciting finish.
By Jimbo
Dec 1, 2012

Moms Rock ends at the hangers above the big roof. You did indeed finish on Family Affair.

When you get to the steep part on Moms Rock the bolt is out to the right which takes you through the steepest part of the roof system.

It is possible at that point to move well left and start clipping bolts on Family Affair there by avoiding the crux of Moms Rock.

Not sure why after you did the crux roof bit onto the ledge you didn't clip the anchors that are right there.

We climbed this yesterday and it has cleaned up very nicely. (Thanks Mik) The warning in the description is no longer a concern.
By Jimbo
Dec 4, 2012

Tomily I have your quick draw. PM me if you want it back.
By Ryan and Jesse Morse-Brady
Oct 23, 2013

10-19-2013 High bee concentration at the last bolts becoming increasingly more active around you as you climbed higher. We bailed...

Large ugly black bees
By Hubert Cumberdale
Feb 27, 2014

27 Feb 2014. No sign of bees. We did see a little baby bat inside a crack, though!