Mom's Pancake  

I think this one is Attack of Life, am I correct on that one, or is this just to the left of that?

Attack of Life was the trad line to the left of Lies and Propaganda...
by the book it looks like a variation to Lies...
When i did Attack of Life i think i missed it cause i did a pure trad line (with one pin) that followed what is now Hippos on Parade... it was R rated and scary but super fun, im glad they bolted it...

This unknown line was very dirty when the last guide came out...

Thanks for the clarification.

thats really just my understanding of it, but no prob...

I have always understood this to be Attack of Life as well but there does seem to be some fog about this route. I thought it was a decent route although really dirty.

Geez, you guys have me getting my old guide book out and checking my notes. Haven't doing much sport since I turned to the trad side.

Shim retro-bolted Attack of Life and called it Hippos on Parade (5.9, G IMHO) several years ago. Whatever the name it is a sweet line. Need to remember to ask him why that name. I know there is a climb at Skytop at the Gunks with that name, don't know if it is related.

He also cleaned more recently, a big effort, thanks Jim; and bolted the climb to left of Hippos on Parade, check with Jim for the name. I think he rated it as 5.5 as do I, but ymmv. Last I looked in August, it looked pretty clean.

If memory serves me correctly the old Attack of Life had you making the potential ankle-breaking moves above the anchor now in place to get to the L&P anchors. Definitely PG13!!

Losbill, yeah that makes sense...

I say skip the bolt that is stuffed in the crack like 20 feet up or so. I think it's the second or third bolt. Not dangerous but it is a waste of time.

Fun climb none the less.

I talked to Jim Shimberg today, he told me tht this route is called Moms Pancake and he is the FA... it took me a while to get him to admit the FA... very modest

Fun & a whole lot easier than I thought it should have been for its grade! Tried it in the rain, "since we were in the neighborhood." The top 1/3rd was a bit dicey due to wet moss. Also, there are some hand holds/flakes that are loose about 3/4 of the way up. They can be used for temporary balance, but I wouldnt pull them!

It has steep technical moves for the grade. Weird sideways bong placement. Sustained moves at times during the climb. Steep is intimidating. Steep is a good intro to what it feels like climbing up to a bolt placement here. Grade of 5.4 in the newest guide book. It's an easy climb that has surprisingly good work outs during it.

Just lead it this last week.

I back up the first pin in the first horizantal crack with a #2 camalot next to the pin.

The middle horizantal crack i did not protect

The top crack i protected with a #1 Camalot

Watch the top right rocks there kinda sharp right below the anchors.

There is now a fixed bong in the large crack between the second and third bolts, and another a bit to the left in the next crack/overhang. Thanks to whoever put them up, its pretty run out without atleast the first one.

Fun route, grade varies with the holds you decide to use, I think using the corner helps quite a bit.

I'm sorry to say, the bongs were incorrectly placed. Though they are wedged in there pretty well and will certainly hold body weight, their orientation should follow the same principle as an angle piton.

From Mountaineering, Freedom of the Hills, 5th ed Submitted By: Ryan Barber on Jul 31, 2011

If they were put there by Shim (the First Ascentionist) then I would trust his judgment, and not worry about it.

A heads up if you are a beginner leader... this route will feel very run out and extremely sketchy if this climb is near your max.

Climbed on 8/29/12. I first climbed the route 1-2 years ago and there was a piton (bong) in the 2nd large crack. When we climbed it this time, the 2nd one was either missing, or I wasn't able to see it. If you're not comfortable at the grade, it will feel very run out.

Although I could see this being a good warmup route, if you are a beginner or not comfortable on the lead AVOID THIS ROUTE. The bolts are as close as you would want them to be until you get to the last one before the anchors. It's a very unnerving runout to the top, and although for expierienced trad climbers I doubt this would feel scary, novice sport climbers will think twice.
I made the mistake of getting on this route my second time outdoors because i thought there was another bolt before the anchors. Turned out to be the sun shining on a drop of water, and I had to bail:( Fortunately, another group was waiting to climb it, so they managed to recover the gear. There are much better beginner routes at the parking lot wall such as a week with pete and percolator, which are much cleaner and closely bolted.