This route would be a classic if it were: A) cleaner, B) on Castle Rock, just 50 meters away. This climb would easily qualify for 3 stars if it were not for the guano on the bottom end of it. (Note - as of 2012, it HAS cleaned up nicely)
Approach Broken Rock by parking at Castle Rock and going to the Country Club Crack area. Walk across the little bridge to Broken Rock and go then 50 feet up the hill to the right. You will see an obvious pair of super-steep twin cracks that reach a bomb-bay chimney and then another hand crack. This route is obvious and has a 2-bolt anchor fixed biners.
Tape up. Now climb the twin cracks via hand jams and stems to a tight-hands and fingerlock crux (powerful, and reachy if you are short). You can get the crux done either with brains or biceps, but be sure you have to have a lot of one or the other--it's a tricky sequence that you can power through if necessary, but beautiful if done correctly. Think footwork. This feels like a complex and gymnastic 5.10c, or a brutally muscular and insecure 5.11. Reach the anchors and rap or lower off after 60' of climbing. If you lower off, you'll be quite some distance from the start, so I'd guess that cleaning on second would be hard.
Cams from 1" to 3.5" and a few stoppers. Double 2s - 3s might help if you like to place a lot.
The Momentum Operator, photo: Bob Horan.
|By david goldstein|
Jun 16, 2007
This climb is another victim of change in the CB/MP star system. Both of the previous posters' ratings were provided under the old system when a 2* single pitch meant "great". This pitch is quite fun and memorable. The only thing keeping it from classic status is its brevity.
|By lenore sparks|
From: Heidelberg, Germany
Aug 25, 2008
This is one of the best climbs of the grade in Boulder Canyon. It has it all. Rad chimney. Head jam optional. Fingers, hands, tight hands, stemming....
|By Brian Adzima|
From: the Paris of Appalachia
Jun 17, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
More of a boulder problem than the gill crack, the business is followed by 20 feet of 5.4.
|By Phil Lauffen|
From: The Bubble
May 1, 2011
Fun Climb. I was leading and I fell turning the first roof with a cam at about my waist and another right below my feet. The clip in point on the back of my climbing shoe clipped into the quickdraw on the cam at my feet and flipped me over.
It's pretty hard to extricate yourself while hanging from your heel.
May 1, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
Damn, I thought that kind of stuff only happened to me....
|By Kevin Presley|
Sep 1, 2013
The exit is pretty wild.