Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Green Stash Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Hash S 
Cecret Lady of the Lake T 
Cough Your Off S 
Green Buddy S 
Just Say No T 
Kind, The S 
Momentary Relapse T 
Mountain Club Route T 
Reefer Madness S 
Rezin Heads S 

Momentary Relapse 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Allen Sanderson & John Steiger July 2009
New Route: Yes
Season: Mid to Late Summer
Page Views: 836
Submitted By: Allen Sanderson on Jul 5, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation

Description 

Momentary Relapse starts on top of a large ledge that is 15' off the deck and climbs up a steep face (11a) that is protected by three bolts. Climbing past the bolts is Cecret Lake climbing at its best, although sadly short. Try to avoid using the holds on the arete to the left or the grungy corner to the right. Finish the face via a mantle to a ledge.

At the ledge step right and proceed up the arete using cams in horizontals for protection. As you start up the arete it is possible to place gear in the grungy corner to the right. Continue up the arete trending slightly left as it broadens, ending at anchors that are shared with Just Say No.

Though heavily cleaned there is still come grunge on the route.


Location 

This route is the seventh route on the wall (from right to left) approximately 20 feet from the base of a ramp.


Protection 

Three draws for the lower face and TCUs and cams from 1/4" to 2" for the arete.

Note - this route now shares the rap anchors with Just Say No and does not utilize the anchors installed in 2005 (now removed) which the FA party thought were for scoping out a route on the ramp that is under them.



Comments on Momentary Relapse Add Comment
Show which comments
By Luke Douglas
Jul 10, 2009

Not my anchor.
Luke

By Greg Martinez
From: SLC UTAH
Jul 31, 2009

next time you want to put up a route don't use someone else's anchors. I put in the anchors and cleaned the route to bolt. so put up your own shit in asshole. I m not posting anymore routes on this site thanks to you. there's a place called Ruth lake with anchors at the top of all the climbs. and can place gear allover lots of first ascents just waiting for u .

By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Aug 1, 2009

You've posted routes here? Funny...

By John Steiger
Aug 1, 2009

Greg, I'm pretty sure the line we climbed is not the line you cleaned. I knocked off a hundred-plus pound flake that would have made a sweet but deadly layback/undercling, and spent a good deal of time brushing moss. At top, our route veers maybe 10 feet right to your anchors, so I suspect the line you've worked on is to the right, and remains unbolted.

I have to add, though, that I've never heard of an area ethic where someone can claim a section of crag by putting anchors at the top, or where anchors can't be shared by another party's route. But, hey, this is all "off topic," according to MP, so if it needs to be hashed out, maybe it should be over a couple Provo Girls at the Porcupine.

By zoso
Aug 2, 2009

Porcupine pub & grill. What a great place.

Oh wait, off topic.

By Brian in SLC
Aug 3, 2009

"I have to add, though, that I've never heard of an area ethic where someone can claim a section of crag by putting anchors at the top..."

Oh, really? My bet is part of the motivation for you guys hauling a drill up there was just exactly that reason.

Cheers.

By mikewhite
Aug 3, 2009

Second that.

By Greg Martinez
From: SLC UTAH
Aug 3, 2009

The first 3 bolts are in the line I was going to bolt.sraight under my anchor. I took my anchor out. so go put your own anchor in and maybe paint your chains so people going to climb 5 10- don't get sandbagged .only seeing your shinny chains.the only ones you can see without trying out of the five walls up there.