Momentary Relapse 5.11a
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | Allen Sanderson & John Steiger July 2009 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | Mid to Late Summer |
| Submitted By: | Allen Sanderson on Jul 5, 2009 |
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Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation
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Description Momentary Relapse starts on top of a large ledge that is 15' off the deck and climbs up a steep face (11a) that is protected by three bolts. Climbing past the bolts is Cecret Lake climbing at its best, although sadly short. Try to avoid using the holds on the arete to the left or the grungy corner to the right. Finish the face via a mantle to a ledge.
At the ledge step right and proceed up the arete using cams in horizontals for protection. As you start up the arete it is possible to place gear in the grungy corner to the right. Continue up the arete trending slightly left as it broadens, ending at anchors that are shared with Just Say No.
Though heavily cleaned there is still come grunge on the route.
Location This route is the seventh route on the wall (from right to left) approximately 20 feet from the base of a ramp.
Protection Three draws for the lower face and TCUs and cams from 1/4" to 2" for the arete.
Note - this route now shares the rap anchors with Just Say No and does not utilize the anchors installed in 2005 (now removed) which the FA party thought were for scoping out a route on the ramp that is under them.
| Comments on Momentary Relapse |
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By Greg Martinez
From: SLC UTAH
Jul 31, 2009
| next time you want to put up a route don't use someone else's anchors. I put in the anchors and cleaned the route to bolt. so put up your own shit in asshole. I m not posting anymore routes on this site thanks to you. there's a place called Ruth lake with anchors at the top of all the climbs. and can place gear allover lots of first ascents just waiting for u . |
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Aug 1, 2009
| You've posted routes here? Funny... |
By John Steiger
Aug 1, 2009
| Greg, I'm pretty sure the line we climbed is not the line you cleaned. I knocked off a hundred-plus pound flake that would have made a sweet but deadly layback/undercling, and spent a good deal of time brushing moss. At top, our route veers maybe 10 feet right to your anchors, so I suspect the line you've worked on is to the right, and remains unbolted.
I have to add, though, that I've never heard of an area ethic where someone can claim a section of crag by putting anchors at the top, or where anchors can't be shared by another party's route. But, hey, this is all "off topic," according to MP, so if it needs to be hashed out, maybe it should be over a couple Provo Girls at the Porcupine. |
By zoso
Aug 2, 2009
| Porcupine pub & grill. What a great place.
Oh wait, off topic. |
By Brian in SLC
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 3, 2009
| "I have to add, though, that I've never heard of an area ethic where someone can claim a section of crag by putting anchors at the top..."
Oh, really? My bet is part of the motivation for you guys hauling a drill up there was just exactly that reason.
Cheers. |
By Greg Martinez
From: SLC UTAH
Aug 3, 2009
| The first 3 bolts are in the line I was going to bolt.sraight under my anchor. I took my anchor out. so go put your own anchor in and maybe paint your chains so people going to climb 5 10- don't get sandbagged .only seeing your shinny chains.the only ones you can see without trying out of the five walls up there. |
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