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> Albion Basin
> Cecret Lake
> Green Stash Wall
Momentary Relapse
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 1.1 from 7
votes
Routes in Green Stash Wall
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Black Hash S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cecret Lady of the Lake T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Cough Your Off S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Green Buddy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Just Say No T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Kind, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Momentary Relapse T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mountain Club Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Reefer Madness S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rezin Heads S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Allen Sanderson & John Steiger July 2009 |
| Page Views: | 929 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Allen Sanderson on Jul 5, 2009 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation
Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Momentary Relapse starts on top of a large ledge that is 15' off the deck and climbs up a steep face (11a) that is protected by three bolts. Climbing past the bolts is Cecret Lake climbing at its best, although sadly short. Try to avoid using the holds on the arete to the left or the grungy corner to the right. Finish the face via a mantle to a ledge.
At the ledge step right and proceed up the arete using cams in horizontals for protection. As you start up the arete it is possible to place gear in the grungy corner to the right. Continue up the arete trending slightly left as it broadens, ending at anchors that are shared with Just Say No.
Though heavily cleaned there is still come grunge on the route.
At the ledge step right and proceed up the arete using cams in horizontals for protection. As you start up the arete it is possible to place gear in the grungy corner to the right. Continue up the arete trending slightly left as it broadens, ending at anchors that are shared with Just Say No.
Though heavily cleaned there is still come grunge on the route.
Location
This route is the seventh route on the wall (from right to left) approximately 20 feet from the base of a ramp.
Protection
Three draws for the lower face and TCUs and cams from 1/4" to 2" for the arete.
Note - this route now shares the rap anchors with Just Say No and does not utilize the anchors installed in 2005 (now removed) which the FA party thought were for scoping out a route on the ramp that is under them.
Note - this route now shares the rap anchors with Just Say No and does not utilize the anchors installed in 2005 (now removed) which the FA party thought were for scoping out a route on the ramp that is under them.
Photos
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