Login with Facebook
The Needle
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bustin' Move S 
Damage Done, The S,TR 
Descent Route T,TR 
Momentary Lapse of Ethics S,TR 
Needle TR wall aka Uphill Slab TR 
North Lieback T 
South Face T 
Suburban Hangover S 
Temple of the Dog S 

Momentary Lapse of Ethics 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Stuemke and Hurst, 1990
Page Views: 817
Submitted By: Brian Faulkner on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Starting the climb getting ready to pull through s...


This is another classic route on The Needle that can be lead or top roped. The TR is the same approach as all the top ropes (up the 5th class ramp). Rap off those anchors below Damage Done, throw it toward Lake Estes side. Again, rappelling to the next anchors can create rope drag when trying to pull it, so be carefull not to get stuck. The actual bottom part of the climb is seems like hard 10 moves. You pull over a bulge on some crimpy holds, the climb lets up for about 10 feet and then you get to the cruxy section, which the angle kicks back a little and then kind of bulges out. If you move to the left, it become 5.11a, move to the right 5.11d. This will give you a good pump...watch out for the great swings you'll have if you fall off!


There are good anchors and 5 bolts. There is major rope swinging potential involved if top roping.

Photos of Momentary Lapse of Ethics Slideshow Add Photo
Falling off the variation...great little line.
Falling off the variation...great little line.

Comments on Momentary Lapse of Ethics Add Comment
Show which comments
By - - -
Jul 4, 2008

Theres a variation that goes right to an alternate final bolt (painted black) and then right to the anchors on the next route over (Temple of Dog, 5.13?) at 5.11d instead of 5.11a.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!