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 ADVANCED
The Needle
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bustin' Move S 
Damage Done, The S,TR 
Descent Route T,TR 
Momentary Lapse of Ethics S,TR 
Needle TR wall aka Uphill Slab TR 
North Lieback T 
South Face T 
Suburban Hangover S 
Temple of the Dog S 

Momentary Lapse of Ethics 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Stuemke and Hurst, 1990
Page Views: 714
Submitted By: Brian Faulkner on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Starting the climb getting ready to pull through s...

Description 

This is another classic route on The Needle that can be lead or top roped. The TR is the same approach as all the top ropes (up the 5th class ramp). Rap off those anchors below Damage Done, throw it toward Lake Estes side. Again, rappelling to the next anchors can create rope drag when trying to pull it, so be carefull not to get stuck. The actual bottom part of the climb is seems like hard 10 moves. You pull over a bulge on some crimpy holds, the climb lets up for about 10 feet and then you get to the cruxy section, which the angle kicks back a little and then kind of bulges out. If you move to the left, it become 5.11a, move to the right 5.11d. This will give you a good pump...watch out for the great swings you'll have if you fall off!

Protection 

There are good anchors and 5 bolts. There is major rope swinging potential involved if top roping.


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Falling off the variation...great little line.
Falling off the variation...great little line.

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Jul 4, 2008

Theres a variation that goes right to an alternate final bolt (painted black) and then right to the anchors on the next route over (Temple of Dog, 5.13?) at 5.11d instead of 5.11a.