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 ADVANCED
Lamb Canyon Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dark Turn of Mind S 
Herd Mentality S 
Moment of Zen T,S 
Sheep on the Wings S 
Sheep Thrills S 
Workingman's Arete T,S 

Moment of Zen 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Austin Archer & Rick Ziegler
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,785
Submitted By: rickziegler on Sep 28, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Austin Archer on pitch 1 of Moment of Zen.

Description 

Pitch 1 (5.7): The approach pitch to Moment of Zen and Workingman's Arete. Start in a broken corner to a bolt that protects a mini slab. Continue up the corner, to steep section leading to a 2 bolt anchor. Gear: small to #3. 25m
Pitch 2 (11a): Traverse up and right over broken ledge to base of crack. Varied jamming for ~20 feet lead to a right leaning diagonal weakness. Traverse up and right, passing a roof. Climb left leaning crack and face to a tips crux. 2 bolt anchor. Gear: small to #3 (small nuts for crux). 30m
Pitch 3 (11a): Traverse right from anchor. Clip bolt and climb a series of moves off a slanting rail, to a shallow rib. Clip chain draw and climb bulge (crux). Make moves up and left to corner of roof. Continue on easier terrain to 2 bolt anchor. 8 bolts. 30m. Descent: 3 30m raps.

Location 

See topo

Protection 

Pitch 1, small to #3 cam, 1 bolt
Pitch 2, small to #3 cam.
Pitch 3, bolts.


Photos of Moment of Zen Slideshow Add Photo
Austin Archer on pitch 1 of Moment of Zen
Austin Archer on pitch 1 of Moment of Zen
Austin Archer approaching the tips crux of Moment of Zen (pitch 1)
Austin Archer approaching the tips crux of Moment ...
splitter. pitch 2
splitter. pitch 2

Comments on Moment of Zen Add Comment
Show which comments
By F.CASILLAS
Mar 17, 2014

pitch 2..Splitter!!
By Laine
From: Reno, NV
Mar 25, 2014

Dudes, this thing looks so good! Putting it on the short list for next time.
By Trevor Hobbs
May 31, 2014

Pine Creek Top 10
By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
Jun 9, 2014

Pitch 2 is absolutely fantastic. Sustained, technical, and engaging from start to finish. About the gear through the crux...bring the absolute smallest stuff you can find. The gear is very small but solid.
By Eric Fjellanger
Jun 10, 2014

Awesome! Pretty desperate at the top of the crack, and p3 has it's tricky moments too.

The moves just past the chain draw are very height dependent. At 6'2" I was easily able to reach an important edge that my 5'6" partner could not.

For gear, single rack to 2" should be good, maybe extra small nuts.