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Lamb Canyon Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dark Turn of Mind 
Herd Mentality 
Moment of Zen 
Sheep on the Wings 
Sheep Thrills 
Workingman's Arete 

Moment of Zen 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Austin Archer & Rick Ziegler
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,045
Submitted By: rickziegler on Sep 28, 2011
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Austin Archer on pitch 1 of Moment of Zen.

Description 

Pitch 1 (5.7): The approach pitch to Moment of Zen and Workingman's Arete. Start in a broken corner to a bolt that protects a mini slab. Continue up the corner, to steep section leading to a 2 bolt anchor. Gear: small to #3. 25m
Pitch 2 (11a): Traverse up and right over broken ledge to base of crack. Varied jamming for ~20 feet lead to a right leaning diagonal weakness. Traverse up and right, passing a roof. Climb left leaning crack and face to a tips crux. 2 bolt anchor. Gear: small to #3 (small nuts for crux). 30m
Pitch 3 (11a): Traverse right from anchor. Clip bolt and climb a series of moves off a slanting rail, to a shallow rib. Clip chain draw and climb bulge (crux). Make moves up and left to corner of roof. Continue on easier terrain to 2 bolt anchor. 8 bolts. 30m. Descent: 3 30m raps.


Location 

See topo


Protection 

Pitch 1, small to #3 cam, 1 bolt
Pitch 2, small to #3 cam.
Pitch 3, bolts.



Photos of Moment of Zen Slideshow Add Photo
Austin Archer on pitch 1 of Moment of Zen
Austin Archer on pitch 1 of Moment of Zen
Austin Archer approaching the tips crux of Moment of Zen (pitch 1)
Austin Archer approaching the tips crux of Moment ...
splitter. pitch 2
splitter. pitch 2
Comments on Moment of Zen Add Comment
Show which comments
By F.CASILLAS
Mar 17, 2014

pitch 2..Splitter!!

By Laine
From: Reno, NV
Mar 25, 2014

Dudes, this thing looks so good! Putting it on the short list for next time.