Moment of Decay  5.11d

217 page views Good page?

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet Consensus:  5.11d [details] FA:  Bill Boyle Submitted By:  Perin Blanchard on Nov 25, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

“Ongoing Decay” might be a better name for this route. It’s actually pretty fun with good, pumpy, desperate moves, but the choss just rains from it.

A surprisingly difficult start on thin holds with a concentration-focusing 3rd clip. Thereafter, the overhanging pumpiness starts with big moves from tiny holds, tiny-to-nonexistent feet, strenuous body positioning, and a few welcome jugs to see you through.

From the penultimate bolt onward the needle on the choss-o-meter pegs and the climbing becomes a bit nerve-wracking as you wonder whether everything you touch is going to fall off.

Location 

Right of the “cave”; first bolted line on the right, ignoring Oscar the Grouch which is quite a bit farther right.

Protection 

6 bolts, chain anchors.