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The Nod (formerly submitted as The Fable)
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La Royal T 
Moment of Clarity T 
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With Cheese T 

Moment of Clarity 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Tim Mannschreck, Roe Green, Steve McCorkel
Page Views: 608
Submitted By: Steve McCorkel on Nov 25, 2006

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Description 

Plug a couple of cams in a 3" crack almost directly under the arÍte, and belay. Carefully traverse left to the South side and the first bolt. Place a small cam after the first bolt. Clip bolts the rest of the way, with an optional hidden small cam (blue Metolius) possible near the top to reduce the run-out (5.9) to the two-bolt anchor. The arÍte, half way up, can be climbed either directly on the arÍte or on the face to the left, the left being a little harder.

Location 

A crack almost directly under the arete.

Protection 

Bolts, small, medium and large cams with a few wires. Runners to reduce drag.


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By Scott Matz
From: Loveland, CO
Feb 14, 2010

Steve, if you have any pictures of the location of these routes in the Eden area that would be helpful, I think I was on Garden of Eden but I'm not sure. There sure is a lot of different people bolting up near the Narrows lately.