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Molson's Madness 

5.12a

   
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Type: Sport, 50 feet
Consensus: 5.12a [details]
FA: Jim Dunn, 1977
Submitted By: john strand on Mar 26, 2009

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Molson's Madness back in October 1988. It's the cl...

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Description 

I think the crux is about 3/4 of the way across though it is pretty sustained. Originally done with pins, they were stolen AT LEAST 3 times. Now bolted. Kinda strenno but probably the easiest route in the cave.


Location 

Right side of the cave- up and left baby !


Protection 

bolts, fixed anchor



Photos of Molson's Madness Slideshow Add Photo
The Molson's Madness bolts in March 1989. <br />The belay is the black ledge at the upper-center left. Some blue webbing is just visible.

The Molson's Madness bolts in March 1989.
The bela...


March 1989. Ben taking a rest while aid cleaning Molson's Madness. This photo gives a good idea of how far off the ground the route gets. It starts above the slab on the R and quickly angles up.

March 1989. Ben taking a rest while aid cleaning M...


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By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Aug 31, 2009
rating: 5.12a

5 bolts 2 pins. Crux is between 4-5 bolts. The roof seeps after a few days of sustained rain and soaks bolts 3-5. Also makes for a good intro bolt ladder for aspiring aid climbers. It's a good alternative to the first pitch of Cathedral direct. From the pin anchor there are a couple rivets that lead to the cathedral direct crack system out the roof.