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Molly and Rocket 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Kyle Patrick, Buddy Baldwin, 1986
Page Views: 711
Submitted By: saxfiend on Dec 10, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Exiting the cave on Molly and Rocket.

Description 

Not as popular as Passages or Art, Molly and Rocket is a fine T-Wall moderate. It gets a 5.8 rating in the DCA; experienced leaders consider this an old-school rating for a somewhat tougher climb, so be solid at the grade if you're going to lead it.

You can start M&R from the top of a spiky boulder (as described in the guidebook) or from the ground next to the boulder. Casual face climbing leads to a cave about 15' up. From the cave, move up through a short chimney (crux) which narrows to a vertical crack. Continue up this crack system to the top.


Location 

Down the trail past Jay Walker and Puppy Ride, starts 10' right of Stone Wave.


Protection 

Large cams (to 5") are needed for the chimney section; the rest of the climb takes small to medium cams, tricams and nuts. Build a gear anchor near the top; to descend, topout and rap from a slung tree.



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By WMC
Feb 4, 2013

Fun climb. Wide section is fun with dual crack systems above. Didnt think it was bad at 5.8

By BHMBen
From: The Deeper South
Feb 5, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Ring anchors up and right.