A short but beautiful almost laser-cut corner with a small roof to finish. This route would be classic if it was 2-3 times longer.
To the right of Telegraph Crack and directly up the hill from Nova Express. Rap anchors located just above the roof.
Edited by OP 8/2014: There have ALWAYS been Metolius rap hangers on this route for as long as I've known. All these misleading route notes about the existence/nonexistence of rap anchors on this route are posted by people who clearly don't recognize this type of hardware. That is all.
Gear to 2" possible. Expect this route to be more "in your face" for the grade than Telegraph Crack.
Anchor at top of route is two solid looking bolts, but no other hardware to rappel from. From the anchor, you can scramble up and right, around a corner at a ledge, then work back to an easy to down scramble section of the large gully one bulge west of Mole's Corner.
I just followed this yesterday and rappelled from the top, the bolts have Metolius rap hangers, you can thread the rope directly through the hangers to rappel, no other hardware needed.
By Tyson W. From: South Lake Tahoe, CA Sep 23, 2012
Agreed with description. If this was longer it would be on par with something like Perfect Lieback in woodfords canyon. Really cool movements in the corner. Protects well.
By Spandex From: East Bay, CA Jul 4, 2013 rating: 5.8+5b16VI-15HVS 4c
Though short, a persistent dihedral with delicate footwork, especially for the grade. I believe I placed a BD .4, .5, a 2 deeper in 3/4 of the way up or so, and a .75 or 1 for the roof, which is cake with a jug a short reach away. True: at least 2 or 3 times longer and this would be really something. The stemming moves are really awesome for how brief the route is.
Conditions: I did this 6/2/13 and there were no rap rings; I lowered off two draws to clean, then hiked up 4th and easy 5th on the right side to retrieve draws.
By DJ Reyes From: Northern Nevada Jun 15, 2014 rating: 5.8+5b16VI-15HVS 4c
I led this yesterday and found it a little more stout than it looked from the ground. The problem for me was placing pro without taking up my hand and finger jams. Delicate moves and a fun roof at the end make this worth doing.