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Mokuleia Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Sicker Red Slick S 
All Itís Cracked Up to Be S 
All Pigs are Created Equal S 
Ambulance Driver T,S 
Beat the Burn S 
Black Tower S 
Blankety Blank S 
Bug Walk  S 
Burnt Offerings S 
Cactus Arete TR 
Cactus Garden S 
Chunky Monkey  T 
Confusion S 
Copper Dragon S 
Devils Triangle S 
Double Dragon S 
Dr. Hook  S 
Dragon Slayer S 
Dragon's Breath S 
Dragon's Fire  S 
Dragon's Spine S 
Easy Rider S 
Einsteinís Bike  S 
Eureka  S 
Face Over Crack T 
Face The Music S 
Fission  S 
Flower Tower  S 
Flower Tower (Variation) TR 
Funky Monkey T,S 
Fusion  S 
Guillotine  S 
Immortalís Path  S 
Insecticide  S 
Mission Impossible TR 
Mission Nearly Impossible S 
New Year's Crack  T 
Nurseís Hook  S 
Pig Tree S 
Rainy Wish  S 
Red Tower of Pain TR 
Rocky Road  T,S 
S-Crack  T 
Shark Fin , The S 
Silver Dragon S 
Sissy Blaster S 
Slice of Death S 
Smoke Stack T 
Spice of Life S 
Submarine Driver TR 
They Will Eat Cake T 
Torpedoed Youth  S 
Trinity S 
Vegetable Crack T 
Wavy Gravy  S 
Winnie Roast  S 
Rest Day:
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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Mokuleia Wall  

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 21.5784, -158.2287 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 35,857
Administrators: 20 kN, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Matt Nelson on Jun 10, 2009
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You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
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Area Reopened MORE INFO >>>


Mokuleia Wall is an outstanding basalt cliff with mainly sport routes 40 to 90 feet in length and 5.7 to 5.13 in difficulty. Rock quality is generally good. This area is like North Table Mountain, but it is not polished and it is taller. On a crowded day, The Mokuleia Wall might see 10-20 climbers but during the week there might not be anyone. The Mokuleia Wall is quite possibly the only crag in the United States that can honestly boost a 365-day climbing season in shorts and a T-shirt at a solid crag.

This area is equipped to be easily top-roped. Most of the routes will have strings running from the ground to the anchor and back to the ground so you can clove hitch your rope and pull it through the anchors at the top. The anchors are all bomber. Some routes have difficulty ratings printed on the top rope sticks, but the sticks get mixed up so don't place too much confidence in what's printed on the stock.

Avoid leaving valuables in your car as break-ins are prominent.

Note: it is a violation of state law to bring a dog to the crag unless licensed as a service dog. Violations require a mandatory court appearance. Prior to climbing at this crag you are required to fill out a waver which is listed above under the "Area Reopened" text.

Getting There 

From the airport take hwy H-1 west to the turnoff to hwy H-2 north, 8.1 miles. Follow H-2 north until it turn into a road with stop lights, 10.9 miles. Continue up the road (830), with out turning until you get to the town of Wailua, after the gas station on the left you will veer right but end up turning left at a stop sign onto Farrington Hwy, 8.4 miles. Follow the signs to Dillingham air field. From there it is a straight shot, you will pass the airfield and the YMCA, to the parking after seven miles. Parking is along the side of the road.

The approach is short but steep. It can take anywhere from 20 to 40 minutes depending on the person. There is a distinct trail head from the road and a decently well defined trail to the base of the crag. Most route lie to the east (climbers left) when you reach the wall but there is a plethora of routes to the west (climbers right) also. The GPS location listed below is the start of the approach. Google Maps identifies the approach trail as the "Mokuleia trail."

The best thing to do is copy and paste the GPS coordinates in Google Maps and have the website calculate directions from a location of your choice to the crag.

21.5784, -158.2287

Climbing Season

Weather station 0.4 miles from here

56 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',26],['2 Stars',22],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',1]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mokuleia Wall:
Dr. Hook    5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Sport, 1 pitch   
Pig Tree   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 50'   
Cactus Garden   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Sport, 1 pitch   
Beat the Burn   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Flower Tower    5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Sport, 1 pitch   
Spice of Life   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
All Itís Cracked Up to Be   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Dragon's Breath   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Rainy Wish    5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Ambulance Driver   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch   
Nurseís Hook    5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Face The Music   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Fusion    5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   
All Pigs are Created Equal   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Blankety Blank   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Torpedoed Youth    5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Copper Dragon   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 83'   
Mission Nearly Impossible   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Winnie Roast    5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Black Tower   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Browse More Classics in Mokuleia Wall

Featured Route For Mokuleia Wall
Copper Dragon

Copper Dragon 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  Hawaii : Mokuleia Wall
This is a popular classic climb at the wall and one of the best routes in Hawaii. It is also the tallest route at the wall (about 80'). This route constantly has large amounts of chalk all over it due to high use. It is about 20 feet to the right of Spice of Life and about 15 feet to the left of Dragon's Breath. It has 12 sport bolts. This route requires at least a 55 meter rope. The route is pumpy on the arms down low, and pumpy on the feet up top. The crux is the 2nd to last bolt. The last fou...[more]   Browse More Classics in Hawaii

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Photos of Mokuleia Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Looking Northeast
Looking Northeast
Mokuleia Wall, looking east
Mokuleia Wall, looking east
Don't remember the name of this one, it was 17 yea...
Don't remember the name of this one, it was 17 yea...
Faking it.
Faking it.
Base of the Mokuleia Wall
Base of the Mokuleia Wall
The approach...
The approach...
Very different basalt that I've climbed other plac...
Very different basalt that I've climbed other plac...
Another view of the Mokuleia Wall looking east
Another view of the Mokuleia Wall looking east
"route guide" that used to be attached t...
BETA PHOTO: "route guide" that used to be attached t...

Comments on Mokuleia Wall Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 23, 2015
By Nich Cloward
From: American Fork
Sep 19, 2009
Great place to climb and a lot! There are about 56 routes here, that I've been told of. Many of them are mixed, so some of them get quite long runouts without extra pro. I took a 30' fall myself bc I chose not to use the extra pro. Good times. The approach gets quite rocky and had big rocks/boulders on it, so I wouldn't suggest doing it in flip flops (Like I did my first time). Some of the routes' first bolts are a little high, but there is a pole with a clamp on it available to set the first draw, if you're not top roping. There's also a map in the box of the routes, but it's terribly outdated. A book is currently in progress. Follow what's on the sticks with the cord. Climbing here takes a little different style than climbing in my home town, Utah. Also, the rock feels a little slippery to me due to the humidity. Cool place, great routes, but someone did try to break into my rental car (The keyhole get jacked up) so don't leave any valuables in sight. Check out climb aloha. Good selection for a home-ran shop.
By Jennifer H
Sep 20, 2010
I found these directions from rockclimbinghawaii.com to be useful in finding the path to the wall:

Take H-2 north (or go west from Haleiwa) and follow the signs to Waialua on the northwest shore of Oahu. Drive past Waialua and Dillingham Airfield with its skydive center and glider airport. Continue driving until you past the YMCA Camp Erdman facility located on both sides of the highway. At this point, you will want to drive only about another 1,000 feet or so, at which point the ocean and sand is again located just next to the highway. Park your car on either side, and look for a faint trail through tall grass heading up to an obvious cliff line. Avoid, the mistake of continuing too far to the end of the paved highway (an additional half mile past Camp Erdman).
By GreatLakes
Dec 13, 2010
Phenomenal views of the North Shore. If you get there before noon then the crag blocks the sun. Locals are a friendly chill crowd. Stop by a shrimp truck on your way out to make it a full experience.

Ratings are a little light compared to the mainland.Ö.the routes will work you.
By B Wenz
Jul 5, 2011
If anyone is headed up to this wall between July 15th and the 20th and wouldn't mind some company, my lady and i would love to join you to provide entertainment and gas money. We will consider entertaining requests for your preferred type of entertainment. We will have our own rope and draws, etc.
By Jackie K.
From: Steamboat Springs
Jun 21, 2012
There are signs at the trail head that say the park is closed and no entry is allowed. There were also two police officers standing at the trail head preventing people from entering the area yesterday. Below is a link to the news story about the closure:

By Eric Wright
From: Telluride CO.
Jan 21, 2013
Oh Hawaii! Get your act together. Any excuse to keep people out of the forest.
Would love to know who was guiding these kids up there for the YMCA.
Truly qualified guide or a friend of a friend doing a favor. If the later, you know that
morbid old saw. "No good deed goes unpunished".
We have untrained climber types pretending to be guides with too many
misbehaving kids here in CO. And they kick rocks on each other from time
to time. But the state does not close access to public lands over these
By ashjpeters
From: Louisiana
Jan 22, 2013
  • Mokuleia climbing closed*
Does anyone have an update on this? Trying to plan a trip for next year, but not sounding hopeful based on how little information is out there about this closure.
By Eric "Pig" Varley
Jan 24, 2013
Mokuleia and Makapuu are closed for the time being. The best place for information on the closure is to check out Climb Aloha's Facebook page (I can't believe I just recommended Facebook for info). This page will be updated when the crags reopen to the climbing community.
By richie
From: englewood, tn
Apr 3, 2013
Any updates? I just saw where this was closed was planning a trip in October and this was going to be a highlight of the trip. Thanks to the government protecting us from ourselves again.
By Talbert
From: Tempe, AZ
Dec 5, 2013
So I did a quick run buy today on my trip to check out the area, and the signs (3 of them to be exact) are perminatly fixed now. The warning signs are pretty clear about not going up there. The fines are just as bad, $2500 for your first violation, $5k, and then $10k. I didnt even wanna risk the hike up with that kind of a fine. I hope that the state changes there mind about this becasue the view from the top of the chains are just breath taking.
By G Halsne
Nov 27, 2014
Any new Beta? Sounds lame. Is there anywhere to climb on the island other than this?
By 20 kN
From: Hawaii
Jan 23, 2015
The area has been reopened.

As of January 25, 2015, the Moke has been reopened. All climbers are required to sign an electronic waver before climbing at the Moke. You can find the waver here:


Access at this area is fragile, and the area is only open conditionally. The State requires that climbers exercise good stewardship in order for our access to remain.

Please note the following rules:

- Dogs and alcoholic beverages are prohibited by law at the Moke, on the approach, and in the parking lot.
- No fires
- Do not deface the cliff
- No amplified music

In addition, please show the state we are good stewards of the land by following the following guidelines:

- Treat other users with respect
- Help clean up chalk and tick marks
- Identify and report safety hazards
- Stay on established trails
- Dispose of human waste appropriately and pack out toilet paper
- Keep a low profile by minimizing noise
- Pack out all gear, rubbish, and practice leave no trace ethics
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