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Mokuleia Wall

Select Route:
A Sicker Red Slick 
All Itís Cracked Up to Be 
All Pigs are Created Equal 
Ambulance Driver 
Beat the Burn 
Black Tower 
Blankety Blank 
Bug Walk  
Burnt Offerings 
Cactus Garden 
Chunky Monkey  
Confusion 
Copper Dragon 
Devils Triangle 
Dr. Hook  
Dragon Slayer 
Dragon's Breath 
Dragon's Fire  
Easy Rider 
Einsteinís Bike  
Eureka  
Face Over Crack 
Face The Music 
Fission  
Flower Tower  
Flower Tower (Variation) 
Funky Monkey 
Fusion  
Guillotine  
Immortalís Path  
Insecticide  
Mission Impossible 
Mission Nearly Impossible 
New Year's Crack  
Nurseís Hook  
Pig Tree 
Rainy Wish  
Red Tower of Pain 
Rocky Road  
S-Crack  
Shark Fin , The 
Silver Dragon 
Sissy Blaster 
Slice of Death 
Smoke Stack 
Spice of Life 
Submarine Driver 
They Will Eat Cake 
Torpedoed Youth  
Trinity 
Vegetable Crack 
Wavy Gravy  
Winnie Roast  

Mokuleia Wall 


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Administrator: Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Matt Nelson on Jun 10, 2009
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Mokuleia Wall
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Description 

WARNING: DO NOT LEAVE ANYTHING IN YOUR VEHICLE!!! THERE ARE MANY BREAK INS HERE!!!

Mokuleia Wall or the Moke as the locals know it is a basalt cliff with mainly sport routes 40 to 90 feet in length and 5.7 to 5.13 in difficulty. Rock quality is generally good, but some of the routes can have loose rock. This area is like North Table Mountain rock wise but not polished from tons of climbing. This area on a crowded day might see 10-15 climbers but during the week there might not be anyone.

This area is equipped to be easily top-roped. Most of the routes will have strings running from the ground to the anchor and back to the ground, this is so you can clove hitch your rope and pull it through the anchors at the top. The anchors are all bomber. Most routes are labeled by name and difficulty on the piece of wood the the string is tied to. Please do not completely top out on the route as the top is very loose, thus the reason for the string system.
The approach can be very hot and humid, but the base of the crag always seems to have a nice breeze. Carpet squares are available for sitting and putting your rope on while climbing. The box that has this is to the climbers left when you reach the crag. There is also a litter stashed up there for emergencies.
There is one gear shop on the island, Mike from Climb Aloha is a great guy and has all the gear you might have forgotten to bring. www.climbaloha.com

Good food and beverages can be found in the town of Haleiwa to the east of the crag along Oahu's north shore.


Getting There 

From the airport take hwy H-1 west to the turnoff to hwy H-2 north, 8.1 miles. Follow H-2 north until it turn into a road with stop lights, 10.9 miles. Continue up the road (830), with out turning until you get to the town of Wailua, after the gas station on the left you will veer right but end up turning left at a stop sign onto Farrington Hwy, 8.4 miles. Follow the signs to Dillingham air field. From there it is a straight shot, you will pass the airfield and the YMCA, to the parking after 7 miles. Parking is along the side of the road.

The approach is short but steep. It can take anywhere from 20 to 40 minutes depending on the person. There is a distinct trail head from the road and a decently well defined trail to the base of the crag. Most route lie to the east (climbers left) when you reach the wall but there is a plethora of routes to the west (climbers right) also. GPS location is to beginning of trail head, crag is directly ahead.


53 Total Routes


['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',25],['2 Stars',18],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',2],['5.8',3],['5.9',3],['5.10',16],['5.11',13],['5.12',12],['5.13',4],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mokuleia Wall:
Vegetable Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Dr. Hook    5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13     Sport, 1 pitch   
Pig Tree   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport, 50'   
Beat the Burn   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Cactus Garden   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13     Sport, 1 pitch   
Flower Tower    5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13     Sport, 1 pitch   
Spice of Life   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
All Itís Cracked Up to Be   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Dragon's Breath   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Rainy Wish    5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Face The Music   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Nurseís Hook    5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   
All Pigs are Created Equal   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Torpedoed Youth    5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Black Tower   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Browse More Classics in Mokuleia Wall

Featured Route For Mokuleia Wall
The beginning of the route

Spice of Life 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b  Hawaii : Mokuleia Wall
Route climbs a shallow dihedral passing three cruxes. First crux is a thin hands/ off fingers crack. The seconds surmounts a small roof with good jams above. The third crux is reminiscent of the the last pitch of Swansons Arete, a super thin crack in an open book that disappears into a blank face. The whole route is well protected, albeit not by the cracks but by bolts. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Hawaii

Photos of Mokuleia Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Looking Northeast
Looking Northeast
Mokuleia Wall, looking east
Mokuleia Wall, looking east
Base of the Mokuleia Wall
Base of the Mokuleia Wall
Another view of the Mokuleia Wall looking east
Another view of the Mokuleia Wall looking east
The approach...
The approach...
Comments on Mokuleia Wall Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 5, 2013
By Nich Cloward
From: American Fork
Sep 19, 2009

Great place to climb and a lot! There are about 56 routes here, that I've been told of. Many of them are mixed, so some of them get quite long runouts without extra pro. I took a 30' fall myself bc I chose not to use the extra pro. Good times. The approach gets quite rocky and had big rocks/boulders on it, so I wouldn't suggest doing it in flip flops (Like I did my first time). Some of the routes' first bolts are a little high, but there is a pole with a clamp on it available to set the first draw, if you're not top roping. There's also a map in the box of the routes, but it's terribly outdated. A book is currently in progress. Follow what's on the sticks with the cord. Climbing here takes a little different style than climbing in my home town, Utah. Also, the rock feels a little slippery to me due to the humidity. Cool place, great routes, but someone did try to break into my rental car (The keyhole get jacked up) so don't leave any valuables in sight. Check out climb aloha. Good selection for a home-ran shop.

By Jennifer H
Sep 20, 2010

I found these directions from rockclimbinghawaii.com to be useful in finding the path to the wall:

Take H-2 north (or go west from Haleiwa) and follow the signs to Waialua on the northwest shore of Oahu. Drive past Waialua and Dillingham Airfield with its skydive center and glider airport. Continue driving until you past the YMCA Camp Erdman facility located on both sides of the highway. At this point, you will want to drive only about another 1,000 feet or so, at which point the ocean and sand is again located just next to the highway. Park your car on either side, and look for a faint trail through tall grass heading up to an obvious cliff line. Avoid, the mistake of continuing too far to the end of the paved highway (an additional half mile past Camp Erdman).

By GreatLakes
Dec 13, 2010

Phenomenal views of the North Shore. If you get there before noon then the crag blocks the sun. Locals are a friendly chill crowd. Stop by a shrimp truck on your way out to make it a full experience.

Ratings are a little light compared to the mainland.Ö.the routes will work you.

By B Wenz
Jul 5, 2011

If anyone is headed up to this wall between July 15th and the 20th and wouldn't mind some company, my lady and i would love to join you to provide entertainment and gas money. We will consider entertaining requests for your preferred type of entertainment. We will have our own rope and draws, etc.

By Jackie K.
From: Steamboat Springs
Jun 21, 2012

There are signs at the trail head that say the park is closed and no entry is allowed. There were also two police officers standing at the trail head preventing people from entering the area yesterday. Below is a link to the news story about the closure:

www.hawaiinewsnow.com/story/18773321/state-says-ymca-did-not>>>

By Eric Wright
From: Telluride CO.
Jan 21, 2013

Oh Hawaii! Get your act together. Any excuse to keep people out of the forest.
Would love to know who was guiding these kids up there for the YMCA.
Truly qualified guide or a friend of a friend doing a favor. If the later, you know that
morbid old saw. "No good deed goes unpunished".
We have untrained climber types pretending to be guides with too many
misbehaving kids here in CO. And they kick rocks on each other from time
to time. But the state does not close access to public lands over these
accidents.

By ashjpeters
Jan 22, 2013

  • Mokuleia climbing closed*
Does anyone have an update on this? Trying to plan a trip for next year, but not sounding hopeful based on how little information is out there about this closure.

By Eric "Pig" Varley
Jan 24, 2013

Mokuleia and Makapuu are closed for the time being. The best place for information on the closure is to check out Climb Aloha's Facebook page (I can't believe I just recommended Facebook for info). This page will be updated when the crags reopen to the climbing community.

By richie
From: englewood, tn
Apr 3, 2013

Any updates? I just saw where this was closed was planning a trip in October and this was going to be a highlight of the trip. Thanks to the government protecting us from ourselves again.

By Talbert
From: Tempe, AZ
Dec 5, 2013

So I did a quick run buy today on my trip to check out the area, and the signs (3 of them to be exact) are perminatly fixed now. The warning signs are pretty clear about not going up there. The fines are just as bad, $2500 for your first violation, $5k, and then $10k. I didnt even wanna risk the hike up with that kind of a fine. I hope that the state changes there mind about this becasue the view from the top of the chains are just breath taking.