Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Attila's Thumb
Select Route:
Mogul Emperor T 

Mogul Emperor 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 330', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Robert Warren, Max Kendall, April 1988
Season: fall-spring
Page Views: 628
Submitted By: Ben Kiessel on Nov 9, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Ben Kiessel standing on the rim near the Canyonlan...

Description 

DR IV says that this route goes at 5.11-. I did not do the moves free but I would guess more like 5.12ish. This route is not for everyone, Brad thought is sucked, I thought it was awesome.

Pitch one:
Start up the loose crack system on the south face of the tower. Pass a small roof on hand jams about 20' off the ground, continue on broken cracks to a two pin belay at a stance below a big roof. We broke this pitch up in to two because of bad rope drag. A #6 camalot is very helpful at the top of this pitch. The book calls this 5.8 which it is not. I would guess 5.10. (150'ish)

Pitch two:
Climb out the right side of the roof to super fun climbing above. Bring a #6 for above the roof to avoid some run out terrain. Climb into a chimney which is protected by a star bolt and a drilled pin. Continue to a belay on a good ledge with two drilled angles. 5.11-. (just over 100')

Pitch three:
Climb a wide crack in a corner for 20'. Scramble through a wide crack to the other side and climb easy (5.7) unprotected terrain for 40' to a drilled pin. Take a breather because this is where I think the 5.12 section is. I aided up and stood on the pin and probably didn't climb anything harder then scary 5.10(if you fell you would back plant on a ledge). Continue up passed very loose blocks to a star bolt and some fun climbing. Two pin hanging anchor is to your left. (175'ish)

Descent:
Rappel the route. The belays were placed so the rope would pull well and they do.


Location 

The route starts on the south side of the tower.


Protection 

One set of stoppers, doubles from .3-4 camalot, one #5 and #6 camalot , runners and draws, two 60 meter ropes.



Photos of Mogul Emperor Slideshow Add Photo
The Mitten Butte and Attila's Thumb casting shadows.
The Mitten Butte and Attila's Thumb casting shadow...
Looking up at the first pitch of Mogul Emperor. <br /> <br />The rock may look solid in this photo but it's like the gong show when you get up there and start tapping on things.
Looking up at the first pitch of Mogul Emperor.

T...
Looking down at Jeff Widen on the third pitch of Mogul Emperor.
Looking down at Jeff Widen on the third pitch of M...
Looking back at Canyonlands Overlook and the rappel point from the summit of Attila's Thumb. <br /> <br />The overlook is on the left edge of the mesa and the rappels are at the point closest to the camera.
Looking back at Canyonlands Overlook and the rappe...
Comments on Mogul Emperor Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brad Brandewie
Nov 12, 2009

I didn't say that this route sucked, just that it is definitely not for everyone. I would give it 2.5 stars for the climbing and 3.5 stars for adventure.

A few thoughts...

The rappels are longer than they seem from the rim. We were wondering if we would make it with two ropes?... not even close.

The first pitch was rated 5.8 in DR4. It's more like loose 5.10- with a giant detached flake about 2/3rds of the way up. Still, it had some fun climbing.

The second pitch was the best on the route. Definitely keep a big cam for above the roof.

The third pitch is the one that precludes me from recommending this route to most people. It starts out fine with a wide crack and shimmy though to the other side of the tower and up some fun ledges. Sounds good right? The issue is that you are then looking at some serious climbing with one lone piton to protect you. Even if you aid on the pin, you will still have to launch into some 5.10 face climbing that's gritty and insecure.

Jeff and I both agreed that if Ben hadn't led this pitch, we would have bailed. Nice lead partner!

If you're a desert rat and comfortable on remote and spooky 5.10 face climbing then have at it. It's good stuff. Otherwise, maybe bring a rope gun for the last pitch.

By Max Kendall
From: Ouray, CO
Jan 27, 2010
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

this is a classic 5.11 tower in Canyonlands!

By Ben Kiessel
Jan 30, 2010

Great route Max! Really good free climbing!
I agree with the 5.11 rating save one move on the last pitch. I would guess that some of the holds got a little smaller over the years? Or who knows, maybe you're right and it's 5.11.

By Brad Brandewie
Aug 10, 2011

More photos and a trip report at piquaclimber.com