Cuba Closes All Access to its Mountains MORE INFO >>>
Cuba has been become a booming winter climbing destination. Hundreds of overhanging sport routes draw Canadian and European climbers, and Cuba’s vast limestone walls are home to a developing community of local climbers. Cuba also has become a favorite destination for many other adventure travelers. For now, it is all over. An unexplained edict of the Cuban government has closed its western mountains, not only to climbers, but all visitors, climbers, hikers, and birders a like. This report is provided here because of the many U.S. climbers who ignore the lightly-enforced U.S. travel ban to climb in Cuba.
Trouble in Paradise
In January 2012 the Cuban authorities closed almost all access to the mountains in Western Cuba. The closure does not apply only to climbers, but all visitors, from cavers and mountain bikers to hikers and bird-watchers. In Viñales National Park, home of about 80 percent of the established routes, access is limited to walking with official guides on the few trails long ago “authorized” by officials for tourism. The authorized trails reach about one percent of Viñales Valley, and go nowhere near any of the climbing sites. The rest of this World Heritage site is off-limits to all visitors.
No one has seen a written decree, so the full scope, rationale, and penalties are unknown. Local officials themselves can’t say why the policy on access has changed.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Description
This is a structural entry created to help allow subareas and routes to be added. It will be filled in subsequently.
Mogote del Valle is one of three main areas that contain the majority of routes in Cuba. More than 80 percent of the routes in Valle de Viñales are on the walls of Mogote del Valle. The closest routes are about one kilometer from town, and the golden walls and caverns of Mogote del Valle can easily be seen from the town of Viñales.
Getting There
To be filled in.
The closest routes are about one kilometer from town, and the golden walls and caverns of Mogote del Valle can easily be seen from the town of Viñales.
All the climbing areas are within walking distance or a short cab ride.
Recommended Climbs on Mogote del Valle
4s and 5s
El Asegurador Cuenta, 4+/5.8 En la Sombrita, 4+/5.8 El Repaso, 5/5.9 Ojos Carmelitas, 5+/5.10a Torre Blanco, 5+/5.10a Psicologia Infantil, 5+/5.10a Mi Cusi, 5+/5.10a
6s
Pitú, 6a/5.10b Chipojo, 6a/5.10b Fantasta de la Ópera, 6a/5.10b Guao, Guano y Espina, 6a/5.10b La Cuchillita, 6a/5.10b Calentando Baterías, 6a/5.10b Tarentola, 6a+/5.10c Filo de Cuchilla, 6a+/5.10c Más Tarde, 6b+/5.11a Aserejé, 6a+/5.10c La Mulatisima, 6a+/5.10c RM, 6a+/5.10c Puro Cubano, 6b+ /5.11a (1st pitch) Fernando's Hideaway, 6c/5.11b Ana Banana, 6c/5.11c Psicosis, 6c, 3 pitches/5.11c Huevos Verdes con Jamón, 6c+/5.11c
7s
Summertime, 7a/5.11d Calzo de Guagua, 7a/5.11d Cuando los Angeles Lloran, 7a/5.11d La Vida es Bella, 7a/5.11d Catamarán, 7a+/5.12a Brutus, 7a+/5.12a Malanga Hasta la Muerta, 7b+/5.12c Wasp Factory, 7b+/12c Romeo y Regleta, 7b+/12c Pichulina San, 7b+/12c Medio Bandidos, 7b+/12c Cuando el Mal es el Cagar, 7b+/12c Amigos en el Tope, 7c/5.12d
8s
Hay Papito, 8a/5.13b Esplendidos, 8a/5.13b The Colony, 8a+/5.13c One-Inch Punch, 8b+/5.14a
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