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Moe's Valley

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Device Ignitor Boulder 
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Moe's Valley 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.06929, -113.62304 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 53,394
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Louis Eubank on Sep 19, 2007
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Another of Ed, on the very entertaining Show of Ha...
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Description 

Nice bouldering area to the west of the St. George airport. It's now easier to get to, and you don't need high clearance anymore, so lots more people are coming out. Definatly recommended as a nice change of pace from St. George area climbing, ir as a stop off (it's within 15 minutes from I-15).
The area is continually being developed, so any new problems would be appreciated.

Local color tends to have poor ethics when it comes to properly disposing their trash. Please help keep Moe's Valley clean by bringing in a garbage bag and carry out whatever cans, bottles or garbage you can find.

Promote and Practice - Leave no Trace.


Getting There 

It's kinda convoluted.

If you follow the directions in A Bouldering Guide to Utah or Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah & The Arizona Strip, Second Edition, you'll definitely get to the valley, but you'll also need 4WD and high clearance.

Due to suburban sprawl there's an easier way, and one that low-clearance 2WD can use:

  • Travel on I-15 (north or south) and get off at Exit 6 (Bluff St.).
  • Turn north on Bluff St.
  • At the first light, turn left...
  • ...then immediately left again onto Hilton Dr. You will pass a bunch of car dealerships in a minute.
  • Continue on Hilton Dr. (which curves to the right and becomes Dixie Dr.) until 600 W street on the left.
  • Turn left onto 600 W.
  • Turn right onto Tonaquint Dr.
  • Turn right on Curly Hollow Drive (after turning onto Tonaquint it is the third street on the right, and heads past Tonaquint Middle School). Shortly past the school the pavement ends.
  • Head up the hill on the dirt road.
  • Bear right at the fork.

You should see Moe's Valley ahead of you (power lines cross the entrance to the valley).
Park in either parking lot (there's usually vehicles in both). Like I said, kinda convoluted.

Mapquest makes things a little clearer for the paved roads, but they don't have anything for the dirt road.


Climbing Season


45 Total Routes


['4 Stars',11],['3 Stars',23],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',2],['V2-3',14],['V4-5',12],['V6-7',11],['V8-9',5],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Moe's Valley:
Hermione   V3 6A     Boulder   Tee Pee Area : Tee Pee Boulder
Device Ignitor Right   V3 6A     Boulder   Device Ignitor Boulder
Cave-Mouse   V3 6A     Boulder, 15'   Tee Pee Area : Solitude Boulder
Underwhere?   V4 6B     Boulder   Tee Pee Area : Tee Pee Boulder
Underboy   V4 6B     Boulder   Monkey Boy Area
The Goose   V4 6B     Boulder   South-West End/Pink Lady Ar...
Device Ignitor Middle   V5 6C     Boulder   Device Ignitor Boulder
Dustbowl   V5 6C     Boulder   South End
Huntsman Graffiti   V5 6C     Boulder, 16'   Sentinal Area : Sentinal Boulder
UnderWhelmed   V6- 7A     Boulder, 12'   South End
Spectro   V6 7A     Boulder   South-West End/Pink Lady Ar...
Mantle Man   V6 7A     Boulder, 20'   Tee Pee Area : Tee Pee Boulder
Israil   V6 7A     Boulder, 15'   South End
Pink Lady   V6 7A     Boulder, 15'   South-West End/Pink Lady Ar...
Shot Hole   V6 7A     Boulder, 15'   Sentinal Area : Shot Hole Boulder
Divice Ignitor Left   V6 7A     Boulder, 15'   Device Ignitor Boulder
The Swan   V7 7A+     Boulder   South-West End/Pink Lady Ar...
Israil Direct   V8 7B     Boulder   South End
Lindner's Roof   V9 7C     Boulder, 10'   Tee Pee Area : Tee Pee Boulder
Gription   V9 7C     Boulder   Monkey Boy Area
Browse More Classics in Moe's Valley

Featured Route For Moe's Valley
starting holds are on the left in this picture. you climb to the right and top out after you grab the big flake.

Dustbowl V5 6C  UT : Saint George : ... : South End
Very Hueco Tanks like boulder problem. Start on the little mini arete (the starting holds are like to pinches) and work up the slopers into the slot and then to the giant flake. Then top out. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Local Information for Moe's Valley
Photos of Moe's Valley Slideshow Add Photo
Nate brun v8/9
Nate brun v8/9
The main draw
The main draw
Ed Dillon on Lidners Roof.
Ed Dillon on Lidners Roof.
Nate Brun on buck nasty v11
Nate Brun on buck nasty v11
Ed Dillon on Show of Hands.
Ed Dillon on Show of Hands.
Tyler on Underwhelmed V6 <br />
Tyler on Underwhelmed V6
Nate Brun on buck nasty v11
Nate Brun on buck nasty v11
V4 Device Igniter
V4 Device Igniter
nate brun  FA v hard
nate brun FA v hard
Will loves it here
Will loves it here
nate brun v8/9 first go!!!
nate brun v8/9 first go!!!
Comments on Moe's Valley Add Comment
Show which comments
By wude72
Sep 1, 2010

Moe's Valley Bouldering Guide Book

markhorclimbing.com/products-page/climbing2/moes-valley-boul>>>

By mattjbudd
From: West Valley, UT
Feb 2, 2011

Here's a sample of Moe's Valley.

Device Ignitor Left V6

By grk10vq
Administrator
Feb 25, 2011

help maintain access:

Each year more people in the climbing community discover the great winter bouldering of Moe’s Valley in St. George Utah. This area is fast becoming a premiere winter destination for an ever growing number of road trippers, weekenders, and climbers interested in trading deep snow drifts for warm desert stone. What most visitors (and admittedly many locals) do not know is that Moe’s Valley is owned by a state trust organization known as SITLA.

The State Institutional Trust Lands Administration (SITLA) was created when the Utah territory was granted statehood. SITLA was given millions of acres of federal land around the state and tasked with using those lands to generate revenue for the public school system. SITLA does this through oil and gas leasing, mineral and resource extraction or land sales for development.

Most locals in this part of the state just assume that if it doesn't have houses on it then it must be owned by the BLM. We made just that assumption when the potential of Moe’s valley was being re-discovered in early 2001. Upon the realization that the entire basin could become a housing development, we formed the Southern Utah Climbers Coalition (yes it spells SUCC) as a means of representing the interests of the local community, and opened a dialog with SITLA.

4 years, and many meetings later Moe’s valley and the Bloomington mesa will be annexed into the city of st. George and maintained as open space for the many forms of recreation that take place out there. With mountain biking on the Zen Trail, sport climbing on the Zen wall, myriad hiking trails as well as some of the best bouldering around, this formation offers outdoor enthusiasts a diverse and convenient venue for the pursuit of our various passions.

The process of approaching a landowner, developing a relationship, and explaining the value that an area or activity has to a community, and then working through solutions that are good for all of the interested parties has been extremely instructive and rewarding. SITLA actually hired a mediator to work through some of the issues and give an even handed point of view. This kind of process could very well be a template to other areas with similar issues.

I am not taking the time to write this just to pat ourselves on the back, but to explain how we have come to our present point, and to sound a note of concern.

As the popularity of Moe’s has increased, so has the number of people camping out at the parking area, driving up the wash to the Sentinel, or around the saddle to the TP boulders and upper basin. There is a fire pit at every major concentration of boulders, litter around the boulders, and tire tracks just about any where you could possibly drive a pickup, SUV or ATV. We are suggesting to the climbing/bouldering community that this is an unacceptable and unnecessary impact to an area that we have worked hard to protect. The hike from the end of the road to the furthest boulder can’t be more than 15 minutes. Of course when you have to bring in firewood that is a long way, so why not, like- not have a fire. The fire rings create the impression that camping at the base of the boulders is acceptable, it isn't. It is worth remembering that these kinds of behaviors were undoubtedly among some of the reasons for the closing of Hueco tanks, and the Black Velvet camping in Red Rocks. It makes our community look bad in the eyes of the landowners, land managers and other users of the area.

We are beginning the process of working with the BLM to identify appropriate areas that are close enough to Moe’s valley and appropriate for the kind of camping that someone on a road trip would do (fire pit, dogs, cathole ect…) In the meantime, if everyone who visits Moe’s would take some of this advice to heart and pass the word it would help our cause, and improve our image with people who’s opinion of our community standards really does matter.


Todd Goss
St. George Utah

By Kowhai
Jan 22, 2013

Lost my camera at the first parking lot at Moe's yesterday 1/21/13 at about 3:30pm. It is a Panasonic Lumix, silver in a red and black case. Lots of memories on it so I'd love to get it back. Email kowhai81@yahoo.com

By DaniMarie
Apr 22, 2013

I lost a pair of Scarpa Veloces and a red chalk bag in Moe's. If found please email me at dmari_11@hotmail.com or call the climbing shop at (435) 628-7277.

Thank you!

By BobGray
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
May 12, 2014

Some footage of a trip to Moe's several years ago.