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Modulation Crack
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 3.9 from 7 votes
Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Jesse Zacher |
Page Views: | 1,467 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Jesse Zacher on Feb 17, 2015 |
Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
P1. (5.7) The first pitch is just an approach pitch that can be bypassed by rapping onto the obvious ledge that is the same starting ledge for the crux pitch of Frozen Will. There is a single bolt for the belayer at the ledge.
P2. (5.11) Be sure to warm up before hopping on this thing. The beginning is stout and physical. Several no hands rests are had throughout the route. From the belay, bypass the obvious, shallow roof with a crack exiting right of it. A few feet above clip a bolt, and make a dainty traverse right into the main crack system. Begin up 40' of pure crack joy of mostly fingers, but every size is present. Make another traverse right into a second crack system and past a few thin, cruxy moves until you are 40' below the top. Clip the bolt, and pull one last difficult move until easy territory to the top anchors. This is a great route!
P2. (5.11) Be sure to warm up before hopping on this thing. The beginning is stout and physical. Several no hands rests are had throughout the route. From the belay, bypass the obvious, shallow roof with a crack exiting right of it. A few feet above clip a bolt, and make a dainty traverse right into the main crack system. Begin up 40' of pure crack joy of mostly fingers, but every size is present. Make another traverse right into a second crack system and past a few thin, cruxy moves until you are 40' below the top. Clip the bolt, and pull one last difficult move until easy territory to the top anchors. This is a great route!
Location
The anchors for this route are only 20 feet left of Frozen Will's anchors. The second pitch shares the same long thin ledge as Frozen Will as well. A short scramble from the top down a slight gully offers obvious bolts on a ledge.
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