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First Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Breathless Arete S 
Flyin' High T 
Forces of Nature T 
Freedom Fighter T 
Golden Flake T 
Living the Dream T 
Modern Trad T 
Patricia Lake Grack T 
Pie in the Sky T 
Shaft, The T 
Sons of Liberty T 

Modern Trad 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Todd Graham, Brian Carkeet (July, '02)
Page Views: 787
Submitted By: Bryan G on Jul 19, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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leading Modern Trad

Description 

Start just to the left of Freedom Fighter. Climb past 3 bolts and climb slightly right into a crack/corner. Take this to a stance under a roof. Climb out the left side of the roof (or the right side, which is a bit easier to protect). Above the roof is the bolted anchor for Freedom Fighter. Clip it for pro and keep climbing up double cracks and a small corner to loose ledge (careful not to drop anything on your belayer).

Location 

Located near the middle of First Cliff. Scramble up onto a large ledge and belay.

Protection 

3 bolts, gear to 3" (extra .25" - .75"). 2 bolt anchor/rap


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By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Jul 21, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Phenomenal route. It is steep and intimidating from the bottom and remains so until the very end. It seemed sustained for the grade (with the occasional good rest), but that may just have been the 11,000 foot altitude talking.

Gear is excellent.

Nuts + double cams from thin to #2 with one #3 camalot. Extra finger sized cams for the squeemish (like me) helps.

Our 70m just made it. YMMV with a 60m. But you can always hit the anchors on top of the 11a to get down in two raps.