Modern Primitive  5.12b

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Consensus:  5.12b [details] FA:  Doug Reed, Rick Thompson, 1988 Submitted By:  Jeremy Steck on Jul 6, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Good rainy day route.

Climb up some easier moves to reach the 2nd bolt. Climbing increases in difficulty as you clip the 3rd bolt. From here, there appears to be two ways to do the crux. Straight up uses very thin edges to some okay pockets to reach a good hold above the 4th bolt. Alternately, you can do the crux moves around the bolt on thin edges and a small pocket to reach a large hold up and left. Once you reach the large hold it's great holds all the way back right to reach the shuts.

Location 

If you approach from the Fern Point Ladders, pass Party In My Mind and locate the face just to the right of Smooth Operator under a large roof. First sport line on the left of this face.

Protection 

4 bolts, shuts.