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 ADVANCED
Fern Point - Party Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Autum Fire T 
Back in the Saddle T 
Biohazard T 
Diversity in Microcosm T 
Diversity in Microcosm Variation Finish T 
Eat My Dust S 
Exoduster S 
Freaky Stylee S 
Harbinger Scarab S 
Manute Bol T 
Modern Primitive S 
Party All the Time T 
Party in My Mind T 
Party Till Your Blind T 
Pocket Pussy S 
Premarital Bliss T 
S'more Energy S 
Smooth Operator T 
Stealth and Magic S 
Stim-O-Stam S 
Techman S 

Modern Primitive 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Doug Reed, Rick Thompson, 1988
Page Views: 503
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Jul 6, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

Good rainy day route.

Climb up some easier moves to reach the 2nd bolt. Climbing increases in difficulty as you clip the 3rd bolt. From here, there appears to be two ways to do the crux. Straight up uses very thin edges to some okay pockets to reach a good hold above the 4th bolt. Alternately, you can do the crux moves around the bolt on thin edges and a small pocket to reach a large hold up and left. Once you reach the large hold it's great holds all the way back right to reach the shuts.

Location 

If you approach from the Fern Point Ladders, pass Party In My Mind and locate the face just to the right of Smooth Operator under a large roof. First sport line on the left of this face.

Protection 

4 bolts, shuts.


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By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Mar 19, 2012

Like a lot of other Endless Wall 12s, the crux moves on this will feel terribly sandbagged until you get them wired. Awesome sequence, but a bit reach dependent.