Modern Life is Rubbish 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Existing route with no name. |
| Season: | All year around is reasonable in WI. |
| Submitted By: | Burt Lindquist on Sep 11, 2012 |
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BETA PHOTO: "Modern Life is Rubbish" route obscured by all the...
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Description The crux is an overhanging crack that climbs up into a notch chimney, a nice hand crack leads to big jugs to get climber into the notch above at a reasonable grade. The small chimney has a hand crack at the back that leads up and climber escapes to ledge on the right and surmounts a final nifty but short corner.
Location Route 41 page 272 of 3rd edition of Climber's Guide to Devil's Lake. Climbs up the bulbous and hanging buttress that lies between the route "Grand Illusion" to the left as climber looks up from below and route "Homo Erectus" to the right. Unless you work your way up to the ledge system at mid cliff height as the guide suggests you need to climb up the pine needle ridden and tree limb obscured crack and ledge system that leads directly to the gnarley Cedar tree that lies just below the crux section on the a-formentioned ledge system. Don't let the mossy look of these lower moves and cracks scare you off.. it's good climbing with fun finger locks and mantle moves onto the periodic ledges.
Protection Protection is excellent all the way with a standard varied DL lead rack and especially well protected at the crux overhanging crack section.
BETA PHOTO: "Modern Life is Rubbish" route photo this time wit...
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By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Sep 12, 2012
| The final moves are a hoot, more fun than it looks. |
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