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 ADVANCED
Big Toe to Great Chimney
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Coup de Gras T,TR 
Double Jeopardy T,TR 
Grand Illusion T,TR 
Homo Erectus T 
Icarus TR 
Impervious Horror TR 
Modern Life is Rubbish T,TR 
Mr. Lucky TR 
Psamead Ghostdance T,TR 
Stuck Knee T,TR 

Modern Life is Rubbish 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Existing route with no name.
Season: All year around is reasonable in WI.
Page Views: 128
Submitted By: Burt Lindquist on Sep 11, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: "Modern Life is Rubbish" route obscured by all the...

Description 

The crux is an overhanging crack that climbs up into a notch chimney, a nice hand crack leads to big jugs to get climber into the notch above at a reasonable grade. The small chimney has a hand crack at the back that leads up and climber escapes to ledge on the right and surmounts a final nifty but short corner.


Location 

Route 41 page 272 of 3rd edition of Climber's Guide to Devil's Lake. Climbs up the bulbous and hanging buttress that lies between the route "Grand Illusion" to the left as climber looks up from below and route "Homo Erectus" to the right. Unless you work your way up to the ledge system at mid cliff height as the guide suggests you need to climb up the pine needle ridden and tree limb obscured crack and ledge system that leads directly to the gnarley Cedar tree that lies just below the crux section on the a-formentioned ledge system. Don't let the mossy look of these lower moves and cracks scare you off.. it's good climbing with fun finger locks and mantle moves onto the periodic ledges.


Protection 

Protection is excellent all the way with a standard varied DL lead rack and especially well protected at the crux overhanging crack section.



Photos of Modern Life is Rubbish Slideshow Add Photo
"Modern Life is Rubbish" route photo this time with line marked in red dashes where route obscured by rock ribs and solid line where visible somewhat.
BETA PHOTO: "Modern Life is Rubbish" route photo this time wit...
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By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Sep 12, 2012

The final moves are a hoot, more fun than it looks.