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Modern Day Pirates 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: M. Reed, M McNease, B. Wolfe (1984)
Season: not summer
Page Views: 824
Submitted By: bernard on Nov 10, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Modern

Description 

Route begins on a vertical to slightly overhanging wall with maybe an old pin and an old bolt, quarter-incher w/Leeper hanger. I suggest that you be solid on moves through this opening sequence until this old fixed gear is upgraded. Stiff moves in this section lead up to a slabbish area with nice, unprotected moves (run out). Deliberately move up on this expansive section of wall to bolts....i think two, rather close together, pulling on edges up through a minor crux to a large hueco or hole-type feature and under a large, triple-tiered roof. Very intimdating here....immense, terrific exposure. Beef up security and launch out roofs. Long reaches to a fixed pin (Lost Arrow-style). The final, burliest crank through the roofs is a blind reach for holds just over the lip of the final tier. Fiercely mantle, heel-hook, flop, or otherwise gracefully pull up onto the top of the final tier shelf and finish through the remaining wide handcrack the splits the final, slabby headwall (also scary).


Location 

(old area, just before the Ampitheater)
First route to the left of Whole Wheat/Fables dihedral, the large dihedral that Dreadlock is to the right of. To the left is Flying Circus and Tech Noir. Tech Noir follows a striking overhanging arete that is a prominant feature in this section of cliff. Around left from the Tech Noir arete is Meathooks and Memory and Rock Wa. The third class descent gully is just past Rock Wa/Meathooks wall


Protection 

this is a mixed route but one would be advised to load up a typical Steele rack. Do not neglect large pro. As in any case, carefully inspect the fixed gear on this route as some of it is pretty old.

This is a long, big route. There are no fixed anchors at the top. Construct an anchor using long slings on trees but one may be best advised to belay from the top. Descend the 3rd class gully somewhat behind the finish area for this route.



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