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moderates at Wall Street vs Indian Creek
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By Shad Williams
From Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 6, 2013
at the top of lazarus in lcc
Aspiring wannabe crack climber here. First trip to the creek coming up next week. How do the 5.8 cracks on Wall Street compare to the 5.8 cracks on Indian Creek? Are the grades at the creek stiffer?

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By Calvino
From Bellingham, WA
Apr 6, 2013
getting ready for the final roof series
I think there are a total of two 5.8 routes at the creek and they are pretty stout until you figure out crack climbing. Wal street is ok to cut your teeth, but I would suggest diving in and investing your time at the creek.

I spent a summer trying to find the right cracks to teach my girlfriend how to crack climb. Ultimately there is going to be suffering, but if you can find a crack that fits your hand well, you will eventually figure out the movement and the grade will be less important. She has small hands so we started on coyne crack, excuse station, and scarface. They are 5.11 but fit her hands. By day three she climbed another tight hand crack at 4x4 wall clean. It is a steep learning curve. Once you can flow through pure crack moves you can adjust to different sizes.


Alex sums it up "get past the pain and the minimal technique you need of putting your fingers in and turning them"

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By Brian Scoggins
From Eugene, OR
Apr 6, 2013
I found Short and Stupid (at Pistol Whipped) to be both aptly named and nearly impossible to accurately grade. If you have ever read about hand jams in a book, the route will feel easy, and if not, you can layback to glory. Its about 30 feet long, maybe less, and takes 3-4 pieces.

As far as stiffer, its really hard to say. The thing is, on a lot of climbs, if you can get off the ground, the route won't get appreciably *technically* harder. You just have to last to the chains, which is often non-trivial. The 5.8s and 5.9s at Wall Street may throw harder moves at you than a lot of 5.10s in the Creek, but virtually all of them are shorter, and none of them are anywhere near as sustained. If you're looking to learn to crack climb in the Moab area, check out the cragging in Kane Springs Canyon, especially the Ice Cream Parlor, then go up to Long Canyon. Maverick Buttress, at the top of Long Canyon, is a microcosm of Indian Creek, is shady and cool in the summer, and is rarely as crowded as either Wall Street, or the Creek.

After that, go to Blue Gramma cliff. There's a lot of shorter routes there, including a 5.9 that is slightly slabby big hands in a corner.

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By Ryan N
From Palo Alto
Apr 6, 2013
RJN
Hit Wall Street first. It on the way to Indian creek and the approach is 3'-5'. There's only down to 5.9 there I think, bad moki roof, which is tricky. Bunch of 5.10 cracks that are GREAT. Can't TR them unless you or someone else leads. I think the grades are similar in both areas. If you start with chocolate corner at Indian Creek you can get a good warm up on a great climb. Just chase the shade around you'll do fine.

FLAG
By Ryan Hill
From Oakland, CA
Apr 6, 2013
I'd suggest the Icecream Parlor in Kane Creek Canyon as well. A number of well protected 5.6-5.9 cracks that won't require a ton of gear or pure crack climbing technique. A nicer venue than Wall Street and less intimidating than the Creek for a new desert climber. I went there a few weeks ago with some newer climbers and we had a blast, tons of stuff to play on. It is a bit crowded, but everyone there was friendly and we had no problems getting on the crack climbs.

FLAG
By Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Apr 6, 2013
OMG, I winz!!!
There are some 5.8's on wall street. I've done most of them but they're not "easy". You'll have to mix slab and trad climbing and there is no gear in spots.

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By Devin Fin
From DURANGO
Apr 7, 2013
dream canyon fun!
spam crack: scar face unnamed 5.8: power wall short an stupid: pistol whipped almreto corner: super crack first pitch of super surprised: super crack pot ash road is a pile ...

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By Shad Williams
From Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 7, 2013
at the top of lazarus in lcc
Thanks for all the good info. I've done a lot of the moderates on wall street, so maybe I can check out ice cream parlor before the indian creek trip.

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