Moderate 1  5.7+

507 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet Consensus:  5.7+ [details] FA:  Submitted By:  James on Jan 14, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: The route starts between large, leaning blocks. S...

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

This is one of those routes that is better to lead. You start at a gap between two large, leaning blocks. You can start on the outside or the inside. Either way, go up till you can squeeze through an opening (you can skip this and go straight up, but then you miss the dirty, fun, hand traverse). Step down and climb up an easy slab with a hand crack. Now the fun begins, place your pro with a long runner and hand traverse out from under the roof. Mantle up then low fifth to the top. For a better finish, traverse over to Mod 2 after the mantle and climb Mod 2's final roof.

Location 

Scramble up boulders just past the start of Gobbler's Cobbler and Turkey Sandwich. Mod 1 starts right between to large blocks that lean against the main rock. To descend, walk up, walk right, then scramble down boulders to your start.

Protection 

Standard rack, may want some bigger pieces, slings or cords for the anchor.