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This terrific pitch is best done as one long pitch, skip the first anchors where there used to be a stump (thanks for removing this!!!) The crux is just before the first bolt on the upper section, and is protected by small cams or nuts. Although, I think the lower part is just as hard. This climb is probably damn near impossible for short people, unless you are good at sideways shoulder wrenching dynos.
Just right of Princely Ambitions. You can rap to the ground with a 70 meter rope.
You can slot an inverted small carabiner in the hole before the first bolt, but may cause rope drag problems. You will want some gear to fill in the gaps between the bolts on the upper section.
Nicola Masciandaro on Model Worker (5.11c), Index ...
From: Seattle, WA
Jun 21, 2008
If you are short, it may take a little magical levitation. It took me SO long to get this move by getting my feet up really high and reaching for the crimp. I tried this move many many times with the same beta, but somehow i just magically levitated this last time.
Jul 13, 2008
The sideways dyno to the ledge is indeed shoulder wrenching; I found that it is possible to climb via stemming moves directly above the first bolt, with the crux being shifting one's weight over to the aforementioned ledge. Although I haven't led it this way, the (first) bolt would be no more than 3 feet beneath you, so it's a viable option for those of us under 5'11".
Jul 14, 2008
There are only two bolts (about 6' apart) on the section above the first anchor and the climbing above them is non-trivial.
From: Seattle, WA
Jul 19, 2008
Yeah the stemming move is the way if you are under 5'3...
|By Eric Hirst|
Sep 28, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a
A #2 Camp Ball nut (Lowe Ball) really helps above the last bolt on the upper section, especially if the seep up there is seeping.
The upper section feels quite a bit easier to me (11a?) than the lower section, although maybe my slab skills haven't kept up. The rock quality on the final moves feels a little spooky to me though. I've finished straight up (R of the bush) both times I've done this.
|By Gabe S|
Mar 25, 2013
The lower pin pulled out on a lead fall in 2010-2011, the leader took a long whipper. It has since been replaced with a SS bolt. This was done to protect the flake. Hammering a new piton in would have broken the flake, causing a serious change to the nature of the climb.
FYI...The old pin was only hammered in about 1/3 of an inch. So all you who took falls and lowered off it for 15 years, thank your lucky stars.
The first half of the climb gets 4 stars...The second gets 3 stars after a slight cleaning. The upper section of the climb has had both bolts replaced and the anchor replaced in the past 3 years....Enjoy!
|By Chris Kalman|
Jul 6, 2013
I just did the full pitch and found my 70 too short (by about 10 meters) to lower from the upper anchors. I'm fairly confident there are no other anchors I missed, and the way I did the route was definitely 5 stars all the way, so probably the proper line. Either way, watch your ends when lowering... You can easily pull the rope and rethread at the lower anchors if it is too short for the upper.
|By Douglas T|
Aug 18, 2013
Far better when done as one long pitch. The old stump is gone, the old bolts higher up replaced and the pulled pin replaced with a bolt. 70 Meter ropes are the standard at Index now so why stop early. Keep going. It's beautiful up there.
| || |Model Worker Full
Submitted By: Douglas T on Aug 18, 2013
Nov 25, 2013
The full P1 is ~40m (an 80m might let you lower off, but I doubt it). You can easily lower to the short (~15m) anchors on Model Worker or the anchors atop Numbah Ten and belay from either before rapping. Several moves before the short anchor each feels harder to me than the move on the 2nd part of the pitch.
A good 5.11 continuation is via Tadpole and Newest Industry.