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Moby Grape Descent
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By johnthethird
Sep 10, 2012

Heading out to cannon next week...how close the descent trail of moby grape put me back to the base of the route?

Im finding that its wise not to leave anything at the base of the climb? How much extra time would it take to get back to the start to retrieve packs, etc.?

Thanks!


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By M Sprague
Administrator
From New England
Sep 10, 2012
Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lichen covered look from scrubbing a new route.

I've only done it once, but I would suggest hiking up there with just what you are going to take up on the wall. You are going to want to take a small pack up with water, a little food, wind jackets and hat at least, unless you are a crazy who can solo it in 23 minutes anyway. By the time you get up, over to the path and down, hiking back to the base is probably the last thing you will want to do.

Others who climb Cannon regularly may have another opinion though.


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By Derek Doucet
Sep 10, 2012

Bringing only what you want for the route is the best option, though there is a climbers' trail that cuts hard right off of the standard descent trail and takes you under the base of the slabs, rather than all the way back to the trail to Profile Lake. From the slabs, it's about a brisk 10-15 minute walk back to the base of MG. This is really helpful if one wants to do some more climbing after doing the Grape, and it's very obvious where to cut right if you're watching for it. If you don't want to climb more, just carry only what you'll need for MG up from the car.


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By Brian
From North Kingstown, RI
Sep 11, 2012

Finding the descent off MG can be a little tricky and can result in some unpleasant bushwhacking if not done right. At the top of the climb head right (climber's right) toward the north end of the cliff. Stay low near the cliff edge and head toward the helicopter pad. You eventually will come to the top of the Old Man (what's left of him). The descent trail is down the man-made water chute.


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By steitz
From midcoast, maine
Sep 11, 2012

'3rding that you should climb up with whatever you hike in with.


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By Dom
Administrator
From New Brunswick Canada
Sep 11, 2012
Moby dick 5.11-

I just climbed it 2 weeks ago and from the top there a lot of stray trails. Whatever you do, stay close to the cliff until you see the helipad. Then head for the remnants of the old man and take the water runnel trail. I know I'm repeating exactly what Brian said but it may be reassuring to hear it from another person.

As for stashing gear at the base, if you intend to keep on climbing then by all means leave some food and water at the base. But if you're gonna be done after MG, then what M. Sprague said will probably apply. (hiking back is the last thing you will want to do.)

I highly recommend finishing on Kurt's Corner. Once you're out of the corner though, start heading right and climb till the end of your rope to many gear anchor possibilities. Do not get lured by the super clean 5.3 slab because you'll get stuck without anchor options.

Anyone knows if they used bleach to clean that slab atop Kurt's Corner. It's kitchen counter clean!


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By johnthethird
Sep 11, 2012

Thanks for the beta all!

Much appreciated!


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By Derek Doucet
Sep 11, 2012

I second the Kurt's corner recommendation, but not the beta to go right above the corner. Instead, I prefer to belay at the top of the corner to maintain line of sight with my second. There is an excellent crack for an anchor on the right in perfect position to do this From there, you can climb straight up the clean slab, trending slightly right near the top and belay at an enormous eye-bolt. A 60m rope easily reaches, the line is quick direct and obvious, and it makes a perfect finish. Admittedly there is very little gear, but if you've made it that far, you'll likely be fine.


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By Dave Curry
From Warwick, RI
Sep 11, 2012

Dom, That slab was covered in vegetation a few years ago. It all slid off during a rainstorm in 2008.


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By losbill
Sep 11, 2012

I have never been able to find the cut-off on the descent. Once broke out way low in the talus field after a thrash through the puckerbrush. Twice got into bushwhacking and turned back. Derek subtly flag that sucker for me will you?


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By Eric Engberg
Sep 11, 2012

losbill wrote:
I have never been able to find the cut-off on the descent. Once broke out way low in the talus field after a thrash through the puckerbrush. Twice got into bushwhacking and turned back. Derek subtly flag that sucker for me will you?


It's right where the down trail hangs a left - maybe 50% of the way down where the steepness starts to ease off some. It's not the greatest tail (the cut over) though.


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By losbill
Sep 14, 2012

Eric Engberg wrote:
It's right where the down trail hangs a left - maybe 50% of the way down where the steepness starts to ease off some. It's not the greatest tail (the cut over) though.


Okay, rumor has it you are all healed up from the surgery Eric. Thus you can serve as rope gun for my onsight of Vertigo this fall. Afterwards we can top out on Moby and you can show me the cutoff. I'm thinking that given your description of "not the greatest trail(sp)" that I actually had been on it before turning back.


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