|Ship Rock is located on the Navajo Nation, and currently climbing is ILLEGAL on the Navajo Nation; including Ship Rock. MORE INFO >>>|
Climbing on the Navajo Nation is ILLEGAL. MORE INFO >>>
The "Moby Dike" is the first (and only as of 2009) all free route that climbs to the main summit of Shiprock. It was climbed ground-up and onsite.
The meat of the climbing is pitches 5-6 they are protected with a mix of gear and bolts on good rock - for Shiprock that is.
Start on the west face in Longs Col. When the gully ends in the big bowl below the N. and Main summits, the "Dike" will be obvious! It's the big vein of black basalt heading up the west face to the saddle between the two summits.
Follow the dike up and left to the saddle, eventually landing you on the east face after 3 pitches of climbing.
Traverse left (to the south)then up good cracks on the N.E. face of the Main summit.
Double ropes, set of nuts, cams to 2" loads of long slings...
BETA PHOTO: Lower portion of route.
Nov 26, 2009
None of this info should be on the wide world web!!
But I gotta agree about the aid rating on the Standard Rt. Although, at the time of my ascent I never really considerd it an aid climb.
Nice job on a proud FFA fellas!
Dec 19, 2009
I have been climbing around the Four Corners area for years. Mr. Goodmans name has become synonymous with Shiprock. Moby Dike is THE free rt on that formation, as stated above, The Standard Rt has a bit of aid, i.e., the RAPPEL, duh.
Mr. Marc (AMGA guide)please tell me you are not the Marc who has been guiding folks illegally up that peak. It is a small community around here, word travels fast. Have you ever talked to the families around the peak for permission to climb, I know Pat has...