Moby Dick  5.10a

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.10a [details] FA:  Lang 1984 Season:  dry and cool Submitted By:  Brian in SLC on Feb 27, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Coming up the classic Moby Dick at Monte Cucco.

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Description 

Steep and improbable. Climbs up the prow of the Tower.

Well bolted.

From the first pitch of La Torre, instead of climbing out to the right, near the bushy tree belay, climb up left to the larger ledge below the arête of the Tower.

Climb up and slightly right of the arête. Pass several roofy spots, always with a thank goodness hold to provide some confidence that there will be another.

Really great position on this classic pitch.

Belay just below the statue of the Madonna.

Enjoy the view!

Rappel the route (or scramble to the top, and rappel Diedro Canale, careful, very exposed).

Take care with the traffic below.

Location 

Located above the first pitch of La Torre, and, pretty much follows the right side of the exposed arete to the top of the tower.

Rap route or scamble up, taking care, and rappel Diedro Canale.

Protection 

Set of quickdraws adequate for the nicely done glued-in bolts. Fixed anchor atop route.

Photos of Moby Dick Slideshow

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Moby Dick: John cleans 'er up.	Near the top of Moby Dick on the tower at Monte Cu...	Looking down Moby Dick at Settore della Torre