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(4) Music Hall
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Backdrop T 
Balcony Dihedral T 
Big Drum S 
Big Nose Valentino T 
Call Me Ishmael T 
Chinese Fiddle T 
Comeback Arete S 
Composure S 
Finger Crack S 
Fucking Fall S 
Harmless Horror T 
Last Huge Rock T 
Moby Dick T 
Mural Wall T 
Nancy's Attempt T,S 
Nut Pitch, The T 
Reluctant S 
Shield T 
Sky Corridor S 
Sky Wall 1 S 
Small Triangle T 
Steal Your Face T 
Three Right Feet T 
Undercling Jam S 
Wedding Route S 

Moby Dick 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 329
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Mar 21, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Matt R. on Moby Dick (?)

Description 

Start up the minor alcove, trending towards a large obvious ledge up about 20 feet and to the right. Make sure to sling early protection as this route meanders a lot. Climbing doesn't get serious for a good 30 feet, but a slight overhang sneaks up on you before the first anchor. From a minor stance, move straight up through horizontals. Or follow a sweet flake up and right to another ledge. If doing this, sling obvious gear on the leftward traverse and step up onto the big ledge at the same anchor. Belay here for the Easy Dick cop out. Otherwise...

Scope the thin face below the big overhang. Good TCU and nut placements abound. Once you feel secure, get your feet up onto good ledges/pockets, jam the crack and pull off a positive sloper until you can reach jugs just below the lip of the overhang. Contort yourself underneath this overhang and use good sidepulls and smearing feet to traverse right. Mantel atop the Whale's Head - a belly flop will do. Can be continued to the top via Call Me Ishmael.

Location 

Approach for Long Lane. Once over the monobridge, continue towards Music Hall, but before rising up to the next flat platform of rock, locate a flat boulder at the lowest point. Belay from here.

Protection 

Gear to 3". 60m rope. Be sure to knot your ends and make sure your rope makes it down.


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By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Taipei, TW
May 16, 2012

In the original "101 Trad Climbs" book, it's graded a 5.8. In the new book it's graded a .10a. The thin moves up to the roof and the smear across definitely seem harder than anything on Long Arete, but not as hard as Surprise Crack. Comparable to Commissary. I'd probably give it a personal grade of 5.9, and note that the grading of the new book is inflated on classic moderates.
By BrianWS
Nov 22, 2013

There are a number of (rusty) bolted routes that continue from the belay ledge in the hard 5.11 to 5.12 range listed in the first guidebook. Have these been resurrected by the Hilti patrol yet?
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Taipei, TW
Nov 24, 2013

Nope. Matt's topless photos of him trad climbing Sword seem to have saved them from the drill.