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Routes in (4) Music Hall
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Backdrop T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Balcony Dihedral T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Balcony Seven T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Big Drum S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Big Nose Valentino T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Blade T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Broad Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Call Me Ishmael T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Captain Ahab T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Chinese Fiddle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Comeback Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Comeback Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Composure S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Finger Crack S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Free Willy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fucking Fall S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Harmless Horror T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Last Huge Rock T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Moby Dick T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Mural Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Musical Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Nancy's Attempt S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Nut Pitch, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Path to the Sky S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Red Dates Mochi T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Reluctant S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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RH3 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Shield T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Sky Wall - Right S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Small Triangle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Starbuck T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Steal Your Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Three Right Feet T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Undercling Jam S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wedding Route T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Whale Rider T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,196 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Nate Ball on Mar 20, 2011 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball |
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Description
Start up the minor alcove, trending towards a large obvious ledge up about 20 feet and to the right. Make sure to sling early protection as this route meanders a lot. Climbing doesn't get serious for a good 30 feet, but a slight overhang sneaks up on you before the first anchor. From a minor stance, move straight up through horizontals. Or follow a sweet flake up and right to another ledge. If doing this, sling obvious gear on the leftward traverse and step up onto the big ledge at the same anchor. Belay here for the Easy Dick cop out. Otherwise...
Scope the thin face below the big overhang. Good TCU and nut placements abound. Once you feel secure, get your feet up onto good ledges/pockets, jam the crack and pull off a positive sloper until you can reach jugs just below the lip of the overhang. Contort yourself underneath this overhang and use good sidepulls and smearing feet to traverse right. Mantel atop the Whale's Head - a belly flop will do. Can be continued to the top via Call Me Ishmael.
Be sure you rappel with a 60m rope. Also knot your ends and make sure your rope makes it down.
Scope the thin face below the big overhang. Good TCU and nut placements abound. Once you feel secure, get your feet up onto good ledges/pockets, jam the crack and pull off a positive sloper until you can reach jugs just below the lip of the overhang. Contort yourself underneath this overhang and use good sidepulls and smearing feet to traverse right. Mantel atop the Whale's Head - a belly flop will do. Can be continued to the top via Call Me Ishmael.
Be sure you rappel with a 60m rope. Also knot your ends and make sure your rope makes it down.
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