Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amber Waves of Pain 
Andrew 
Android-Moby Dick link-up 
Annie Oh! 
Arrow 
Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK) 
CCK Direct 
Cold Turkeys 
Diana 
Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) 
Erect Direction 
Face to Face 
Feast of Fools 
Hans' Puss 
Jim's Gem 
Keep on Struttin' 
Last Will Be First, The 
Limelight 
Lost and Found 
Man's Quest for Flight 
Moby Dick 
Modern Times 
Moonlight 
No Glow 
Nurse's Aid 
Proctor Silex 
Proctoscope 
Red Pillar 
Silhouette 
Smilin' the Hard Way 
Steep Hikin' 
Step Lively 
Suppers Ready 
Three Doves 
Three Vultures 
Traverse of the Clods 
Unholy Wick 
Updraft 

Moby Dick 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 1950s Hans Kraus and friends
Page Views: 775
Submitted By: Michael G on Aug 18, 2010
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Climber following Moby Dick.
Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a variation to Andrew's last pitch, off of the GT Ledge.

Starting just right of the major Twilight Zone corner, climb the easy face to a flaky right-facing corner to the overhang, then traverse right and up a groove to a ledge and left-facing flake. Take the flake to the overhang above, traverse left across a white face, and up into the V-notch (crux). Climb past the overhang to the top.

Rappel to climber's right over No Glow.


Location 

Same start as Andrew off of the GT Ledge.


Protection 

Save a medium to large cam to make the crux G.



Photos of Moby Dick Slideshow Add Photo
Wider view of the route
BETA PHOTO: Wider view of the route
Comments on Moby Dick Add Comment
Show which comments
By JSH
Administrator
Aug 19, 2010

When I climbed this, the notch looked so much like V3 that I almost expected to climb it the same way. The holds through the notch are all like V3 ... but upside-down!

The rock just below the notch was a bit loose, if I recall.

By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Jun 17, 2012

Wow, quite an exciting finish to Andrew! Traverse with teeny feet, get into the v-notch on crimpers, stem into the v-notch, and a big reach for this shorty. G-rate gear, though I did not see the pin in the v-notch.

By David Stowe
Jun 18, 2012

Really fun pitch. Not something that I would recommend as a finish to Andrew as it is significantly harder than that climb, but a very nice pitch to do when you are on GT over that way. I don't ever remember a pin in the the notch, but there are two lower down. That notch can be really tricky. 5.8 if done right, but can feel a bit harder if you're off a bit.

By Logan Schiff
From: NY, NY
Sep 17, 2013

Very nice worthwhile climb! Some lichen and loose rock but pro below the notch is solid.