Moby Dick 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | 1950s Hans Kraus and friends |
| Submitted By: | Michael G on Aug 18, 2010 |
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Climber following Moby Dick.
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Area closures MORE INFO >>>
2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This is a variation to Andrew's last pitch, off of the GT Ledge.
Starting just right of the major Twilight Zone corner, climb the easy face to a flaky right-facing corner to the overhang, then traverse right and up a groove to a ledge and left-facing flake. Take the flake to the overhang above, traverse left across a white face, and up into the V-notch (crux). Climb past the overhang to the top.
Rappel to climber's right over No Glow.
Location Same start as Andrew off of the GT Ledge.
Protection Save a medium to large cam to make the crux G.
BETA PHOTO: Wider view of the route
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By JSH
Administrator
Aug 19, 2010
| When I climbed this, the notch looked so much like V3 that I almost expected to climb it the same way. The holds through the notch are all like V3 ... but upside-down!
The rock just below the notch was a bit loose, if I recall. |
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Jun 17, 2012
| Wow, quite an exciting finish to Andrew! Traverse with teeny feet, get into the v-notch on crimpers, stem into the v-notch, and a big reach for this shorty. G-rate gear, though I did not see the pin in the v-notch. |
By David Stowe
Jun 18, 2012
| Really fun pitch. Not something that I would recommend as a finish to Andrew as it is significantly harder than that climb, but a very nice pitch to do when you are on GT over that way. I don't ever remember a pin in the the notch, but there are two lower down. That notch can be really tricky. 5.8 if done right, but can feel a bit harder if you're off a bit. |
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