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Climber following Moby Dick.
This is a variation to Andrew's last pitch, off of the GT Ledge.
Starting just right of the major Twilight Zone corner, climb the easy face to a flaky right-facing corner to the overhang, then traverse right and up a groove to a ledge and left-facing flake. Take the flake to the overhang above, traverse left across a white face, and up into the V-notch (crux). Climb past the overhang to the top.
Rappel to climber's right over No Glow.
Same start as Andrew off of the GT Ledge.
Save a medium to large cam to make the crux G.
BETA PHOTO: Wider view of the route
Aug 19, 2010
When I climbed this, the notch looked so much like V3 that I almost expected to climb it the same way. The holds through the notch are all like V3 ... but upside-down!
The rock just below the notch was a bit loose, if I recall.
From: Wayne, PA
Jun 17, 2012
Wow, quite an exciting finish to Andrew! Traverse with teeny feet, get into the v-notch on crimpers, stem into the v-notch, and a big reach for this shorty. G-rate gear, though I did not see the pin in the v-notch.
|By David Stowe|
Jun 18, 2012
Really fun pitch. Not something that I would recommend as a finish to Andrew as it is significantly harder than that climb, but a very nice pitch to do when you are on GT over that way. I don't ever remember a pin in the the notch, but there are two lower down. That notch can be really tricky. 5.8 if done right, but can feel a bit harder if you're off a bit.