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Moby Dick

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Moby Dick Standard Routes T 
Nantucket Sleighride T 
Whale'n S 

Moby Dick 


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Page Views: 2,568
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Housiaux, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Shawn P. Tracy on Jun 23, 2004
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Darin Limvere at the crux of Nantucket Sleigh Ride...

Description 

A nice, tall formation with quality rock and routes. The largest stone in its grouping and very near the road.


Getting There 

Located just uphill (west) from the Ten Pins and on the south side of the road. Park either at the small pullout on the north side of the road immediately across the road from it, or up hill by Totem Pole or Phallus. The north side of the formation, the one facing the road, has a 1.5-2 foot deep, right-facing dihedral runing approximately 40 feet up its face.


Climbing Season


3 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',2],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Moby Dick:
Moby Dick Standard Routes   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
Nantucket Sleighride   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Browse More Classics in Moby Dick

Featured Route For Moby Dick
Face climbing past the crux. June '07.

Nantucket Sleighride 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b SD : Custer State Park : ... : Moby Dick
This ultra-classic route starts in the shallow (1-2 foot deep, right-facing) dihedral, facing the road. It protects well, albeit somewhat strenuously at times, in the obvious placements. Several placements and sizes of small to medium gear are available. Make a committing, but not too difficult move up and out of the dihedral to the bolt. Shake out the legs and arms then run up the fun face past several bolts to the groove where you'll make about a 30 foot runout for the anchors while ponder...[more]   Browse More Classics in SD

Photos of Moby Dick Slideshow Add Photo
Moby Dick taken from the road.  As you drive from the Needle's Eye when you reach the Switchbacks you first pass the Totem Pole, then Picture Rock (both on your left), fifty yards farther down the road Moby Dick will be on your right.  There is a pull out big enough for two or three cars across the road from Moby Dick.
BETA PHOTO: Moby Dick taken from the road. As you drive from ...
The long rap down the roadside face of Moby Dick.  We did it with a 70M rope with only about 7 feet to spare.
The long rap down the roadside face of Moby Dick. ...
Comments on Moby Dick Add Comment
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By Steve Mestdagh
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 6, 2005

Anyone has a name for the long route to the right (and around the corner) of Nantucket Sleighride? If so, I'll enter a description. It's too good to be called "Unknown". Thanks.

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Sep 2, 2008

The above directions are incorrect. Moby Dick is located on the NORTH side of the road [although technically, the road wraps around it, so it is both on the N, S & W side of the road, it is NORTH of the section of road nearest to the cliff], and the prominent dihedral of Nantucket Sleighride is on the SOUTH side of the formation.