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 ADVANCED
The Rad Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Azkaban Jam T 
Basilisk Fang T 
Cadillac Crack T 
Chamber of Secrets, The T 
Dark Arts T 
Dementor, The T 
Diagon Alley T 
Falling Rein T 
Fright of the Phoenix, The T 
Get Rad T 
Moaning Myrtle T 
Rita Skeeter T 

Moaning Myrtle 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Larry DeAngelo
Page Views: 243
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Jan 1, 2005

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Description 

Twenty feet to the right of Azkaban Jam, and immediately to the right of the arete of Rita Skeeter is a deceptive dihedral with a few jammed blocks. Easy climbing leads up to an impasse. The exit move left requires a verrrry long stretch. If you are less than 6'4", this move is much harder than 5.9. On the first ascent, this section was protected by lassoing a horn. Climb into the wide crack above and follow it to a big ledge.

Protection 

finger-size cams


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