Devil May Care is a short (70') but high quality face climb. USDA prime Wingate the whole way. A rarity, a desert face climb with natural gear. Long approach, but cool route and cool location. Start the climb on the (shorter) west side from an obvious shoulder. Mantel up and left, step right, up a brief dihedral to a ledge. Continue pretty much straight up, passing good but scattered placements in pockets and horizontal cracks. The third large band is the crux. The moves here are harder for thos...[more]Browse More Classics in UT
Super Chimney is the big flake visible to the left (east & higher) than the Moab Rim Tower. (About half an hour up the Moab Rim Jeep Trail, chimney feature, on the uphill side). One set of cams gets you through, and a few draws for the pins higher up. Paul R. and Jimmie D. established this gem initiall as A2 and most of the same 5.10. After a superfun TR, Jimmie, Hellen and Billy R. removed the extra pitons and this now leads as one of the best single pitches on the river! Belay at the top. Pretty exciting at the top, but probably not R.