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Moab "girlfriend" route suggestions

Original Post
marty d · · Fort Collins · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 0

Alright fellas, I need some advice. I'm headed to Moab this coming weekend with a new lady friend that I'm hoping to turn into my special lady friend.

I'd like to take her up a nice moderate (but not too easy) 2-5 pitch route, 5.8 to 5.11a, preferably on a tower with nice views, and most importantly something where we (especially she) will have FUN!

She has climbed for a few years although mainly in the gym, is psyched and likes to be challenged (not shut down on stuff way over her head), has excellent overall fitness, but she's not a crack climbing wizard. She's probably only lead a pitch or 2 of 5.9+ in the desert. I have spent a lot of time in the area and generally onsight 12- in the creek for what it's worth.

So far my list of potentials is:
Honeymoon Chimney on The Priest - might as well stress test her now, right ;)
North Chimney of Castleton - worried about crowds
Jah Man on Sister Superior - is the hike any worse than Castleton? also crowds?
Lonely Vigil on Lighthouse - I'm fine with the anchorless top out pitch, but can I belay her up and lower her off my body weight or do we both have to downclimb?
Right Chimney on 3 Penguins - ehhh, Arches...
East Face of Sunflower Tower
Rimshot - Bridger Jack Butte

Ancient Art, Owl Rock, Easter Island, South 6 shooter, Looking Glass Rock are all vetoed.

So with all that in mind, I'd love to hear some ideas on route ideas. Definitely interested in non tower routes too.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

Are you sure you want to climb a 10 or 11a with her? Seems like something easier than that would be the way to start with her.

I wish I could climb 11a!

marty d · · Fort Collins · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 0
FrankPS wrote:Are you sure you want to climb a 10 or 11a with her? Seems like something easier than that would be the way to start with her.
She's toproped 5.10s in the creek without trouble and even gotten up an 11- or 2, so I think it would be good.
ZANE · · Cleveland, OH · Joined May 2011 · Points: 20

North Chimney on Castleton. Get there early, but I didn't have any other parties when I did it. First pitch isn't really a crack pitch, second is kinda just offwidthy (not hard, but bring a #5 camalot). Only bad part is trusting your feet on calcite if you havent before.

Jah Man is a longer hike, and pretty gnar. If she doesn't have much crack experience I wouldn't recommend it.

doligo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 264
marty d wrote:Ancient Art, Owl Rock, Easter Island, South 6 shooter, Looking Glass Rock are all vetoed.
I'm curious whom are they vetoed by? All sound like excellent entry level towers that don't require much crack climbing technique.
Frank Stein · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 205

Well, if you are dead set on something 11- to 10+, why not Lightning Bolt Cracks? There is no weirdness (save for a squeeze chimney), the rock is good, and the North Six Shooter is a pretty cool tower.

JeffL · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 65

Are you guys going for a TFA? (Tear free ascent) If so, I would not recommend honeymoon chimney

Austin Baird · · SLC, Utah · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 95

You both have to downclimb off of Lonely Vigil. Great route and not too funky, but she won't be remotely excited about the summit.

Colby Wayment · · Ogden, UT · Joined Dec 2001 · Points: 683

Here's another nod towards the vetoed routes. They're great.

One thing to consider is that sometimes tower routes are can be relatively hard for the grade if using Creek ratings as your standard. For example, I would think the second pitch wide hands crack to Lightning bolt cracks might not be the best for her. I don't know about Rimshot - I think there's wide there.

Speaking from experience, definitely DON'T take your girlfriend up Vision Quest though it's only 5.10...

Fine Jade, however, is pretty easy for the grade and doesn't feature anything wide except for the short bit with the overhanging thin hands 20 feet off of the ground. Figuring out how to get her through that might be a challenge, but after that you should be good.

doligo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 264

Rimshot is a great route, but it is not "Thin hands" as Dr. Bloom describes. If you ever decide on any of the routes on your list, makes sure to bring doubles or triples of wide gear, so she could use some nylon jugs. Sorry no walking big cams.

Pete Cutler · · Des Moines, IA · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 5

Fine Jade? Other than the short 5.10 OW at the beginning (which you can leave a #5 and sling to yard on) its mostly finger cracks with feet. Felt easier to me than Jah Man. Plus, you don't need as much crack technique for finger stuff, just crimp strength, and the last pitch direct finish up the 11a crimps is totally dreamy! Might be kind of tough for a first desert tower though.

Honeymoon Chimney rocks but don't take a first timer up there, the short traverse after the 11a / A0 stemming is committing and scary for a beginner.

Why not look at Ancient Art?

Don't take a first timer up Lightning bolt cracks. Kicks-ass but the roof could be intimidating, you (the belayer) wont really have a good line of sight and its hard to hear eachother from there. Plus the 5.9 squeeze at the top is full-on.

North Chimney might be your best bet. Not as great as some of those other classics but good climbing with no nasty surprises for a beginner. (other than a short 5.9 OW - bring the 5)

christopher adams · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 0

Do yourself a favor- if you're doing a multi-pitch route with someone who does not have a lot of multi-pitch experience, and you want to spend time with that person in the future and that person to like you, don't make the climb anywhere near their limit.

If she says she can do 11's, I would recommend nothing harder than 5.9 for this date. It will still be fun, and as a bonus, you won't have to haul her!

Source: Numerous terrible experiences with people on multi-pitch climbs where they thought they could climb way harder than they could actually climb in that environment.

AmandaM · · Jackson, WY · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 10

I agree that Indian Creek ratings don't apply to many tower routes. I'd recommend Fine Jade. Beautiful climb that it good for average girl-hands. We even had the summit to ourselves on my 30th birthday - lucky! Good luck and have fun!

Scotty Nelson · · Boulder · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 830

Bridger Jacks. Short approach and quality pitches. Easter Island or Sunflower Tower come to mind. Also they get shade in the PM.

Gretchen 81 · · Longview, WA · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 60

As a female: my 2cents...totally agree with the above post by Christopher A. top roping 11's is far far different that multipitch 11. Stick to 10s and under or 9s and under, and if she's never done multipitch I'd keep the pitches to 4 or less...more than that can be tedious/overwhelming for a first outing. I'd recommend that you carry most/all the extra stuff you'd need a multipitch outing to keep her comfortable (descent shoes, water, second rope for rap, etc).

south six shoot is a fun outing, but the climbing isn't spectacular...kind of a bring some wine and cheese for the summit and watch the sun set (just make sure you don't get lost on the way down).

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Scotty Nelson wrote:Bridger Jacks. Short approach and quality pitches. Easter Island or Sunflower Tower come to mind. Also they get shade in the PM.
The OP wrote:
"Ancient Art, Owl Rock, Easter Island, South 6 shooter, Looking Glass Rock are all vetoed."
Fat Dad · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 60
christopher adams wrote:Do yourself a favor- if you're doing a multi-pitch route with someone who does not have a lot of multi-pitch experience, and you want to spend time with that person in the future and that person to like you, don't make the climb anywhere near their limit. If she says she can do 11's, I would recommend nothing harder than 5.9 for this date. It will still be fun, and as a bonus, you won't have to haul her! Source: Numerous terrible experiences with people on multi-pitch climbs where they thought they could climb way harder than they could actually climb in that environment.
I agree with this as well. I took my soon to be fiance to Moab (got engaged on that trip), and we had a great time, but mostly because we did shorter things where we could actually hang out. Even though she climbed outside a fair bit at Josh, she was not dialed for long approaches (sorry honey) and long pitches where communication might be difficult.

I think you need to decide whether you want this to be a climbing trip first, or a trip to show this lady how well you fit together. While those two goals might not be mutually exclusive, they could be. Good luck.
marty d · · Fort Collins · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 0
Cornelius Jefferson wrote:hey look at me I have a fit new girlfriend who climbs hard in the desert but not as hard as me I OS 5.12 at IC which of these sick desert routes should I take her up on our date
Sigh.... You sound like a really pleasant person.

To everyone else thanks for the input.
It's looking to be hot this weekend! Perhaps North Chimney is the safe bet all around.

Still interested to hear of any other (lesser known) routes that might be good. Doesn't have to be a tower, but topping out on something is always fun methinks, even if it's just the side of a cliff.
Moritz B. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 185

I would recommend Jah Man. It's very chill climbing, a cool summit and sister superior is a good first tower.

Larry Harpe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 43

The north chimney is going to be crowded on the weekend. I got a predawn start on the hike up last weekend and when I got to the base their were already 10 people in line for the n chimney. No one was on the K/I. I would not want to climb behind anyone on the north chimney. Lots of loose rock.

Check out the new guide High on Moab. It's got a lot of off the beaten path stuff.

One suggestion though is to go into Arches and try and tick as many tiny towers in a day like Tonka Tower, Owl Rock, Off-balance Rock, the Testies, Three penguins and others. Elephant Butte is a fun date adventure too.

Nico C · · mt shasta, ca · Joined May 2013 · Points: 55

Psycho Tower? not exactly Moab but close. Perfect all around per what you're seeking and experience level.
As said dial it down more than you think for the new (albeit strong) desert tower climber
With the exception of south six, owl rock, and looking glass which are admittedly kinda lame I'd consider the others on your veto list. Choose for her not you. If the climbs are way below your grade/interest level lose any aspirations of a climb that you'd want to do, and go into guide mode. You can ramp up later if it it works out.
You do not want to have to bail, console a cry, or both. trust me on this. Set yourself up for guaranteed success first go-around then add challenges later. You get one chance at this.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern Utah Deserts
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