Mo' Betta' Holds
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This climb is so much fun! Start by climbing up the small right facing corner to gain a stance. Traverse right and up a few feet to clip the second bolt with a fixed chain draw. Climb straight over a very shallow left facing corner (technical crux) to gain a nice stance below the roof. From here, follow excellent jug holds into the roof and head right using the large flake in the roof to gain a stance. Continue straight up, eventually finishing on the arete to reach the anchors. This is more of an endurance climb than it is technical. All the holds after the 3rd bolt are jugs.
This is the 4th bolted line to the right of Flight of the Gumbie. The route starts under the large roof. This is climb to the right of Kaos, 5.12c.
6 bolts, shuts.
|Comments on Mo' Betta' Holds
|By Sam Larson|
From: Washington, D.C.
Oct 1, 2013
The description for this route in the Wolverine guidebook says "Dangle out to the 'trash can lid' then throw them jugs to the ground on your way to the slabby top out."
I don't think it meant that literally, but that's exactly what happened while we were working this route last weekend: about to go for the roof move, the entire 'trash can lid' broke off and fell to the ground. Thankfully no one was hurt, but it definitely changed the route and exposed another smaller, possibly questionable flake in its place.
| || |The 'trash can lid,' now on the ground.
Submitted By: Sam Larson on Oct 1, 2013
Oct 2, 2013
Glad no one was hurt. Too bad that the hold more or less defined the route.
Word is that the break was not simply due to pulling too hard or weighing too much -- the climber allegedly placed a cam behind the flake and weighted it, causing the rock to break.
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Oct 20, 2013
The route is still climbable, even with "less betta holds." Might be a bit harder and reachier, but not too much more.