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Butcher's Branch
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All The Right Moves S 
Bag, The T 
Bicycle Club S 
Boing S 
Bourbon Sauce S 
Control S 
Flight of the Gumbie S 
Green Piece, The S 
Hardcore Female Thrash S 
Jumpin' Ring Snakes T 
Just Another Glitch T 
Kaos S 
Lost Souls S 
Low Voltage S 
Ministry S 
Mo' Betta' Holds S 
Play it by Ear S 
Sancho Belige S 
Springer S 
Stop Pulling My Ear (Arppeggio) S 

Mo' Betta' Holds 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Doug Reed (1991)
Page Views: 1,699
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Apr 26, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Pulling the roof on Mo' Betta' Holds, NRG

Description 

This climb is so much fun! Start by climbing up the small right facing corner to gain a stance. Traverse right and up a few feet to clip the second bolt with a fixed chain draw. Climb straight over a very shallow left facing corner (technical crux) to gain a nice stance below the roof. From here, follow excellent jug holds into the roof and head right using the large flake in the roof to gain a stance. Continue straight up, eventually finishing on the arete to reach the anchors. This is more of an endurance climb than it is technical. All the holds after the 3rd bolt are jugs.

Location 

This is the 4th bolted line to the right of Flight of the Gumbie. The route starts under the large roof. This is climb to the right of Kaos, 5.12c.

Protection 

6 bolts, shuts.


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By Samantha Larson
From: Seattle, WA
Oct 1, 2013

The description for this route in the Wolverine guidebook says "Dangle out to the 'trash can lid' then throw them jugs to the ground on your way to the slabby top out."
I don't think it meant that literally, but that's exactly what happened while we were working this route last weekend: about to go for the roof move, the entire 'trash can lid' broke off and fell to the ground. Thankfully no one was hurt, but it definitely changed the route and exposed another smaller, possibly questionable flake in its place.


The 'trash can lid,' now on the ground.
The 'trash can lid,' now on the ground.
By BrianWS
Oct 2, 2013

Glad no one was hurt. Too bad that the hold more or less defined the route.

Word is that the break was not simply due to pulling too hard or weighing too much -- the climber allegedly placed a cam behind the flake and weighted it, causing the rock to break.
By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Oct 20, 2013

The route is still climbable, even with "less betta holds." Might be a bit harder and reachier, but not too much more.
By J. Kincaid
May 6, 2014

I was on it without the trash can lid. Didn't send but that part of the route went third try or so. I also replaced a deeply grooved 'biner on the sling protecting that crux with one that I bootied the previous day. It was in way better condition than the one I pulled, but i don't exactly know the history so be aware and decide for yourself.
By Lil Josh
From: Bloomington, Indiana
Jul 22, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13

The is a perma draw at the second bolt due to some folks falling/breaking ankles hanging the draws. However there are still some pretty spicy/runout sections! Use long slings on the 2 roof bolts to prevent drag. The move on the roof is this sweet iron cross shoulder thrasher move that's harder than 11c. I assume this is where the 'trash can lid' used to be... I think this route goes at 5.12a now. Definitely deserves 4 stars!