Mixed Feelings 

Thin this year (12/8/01). The ice is a few moves above the fixed pin, and only 4 inches thick for 15'. It's doable, though.

I don't get the comment about this route not being suitable for toproping -- is that just to keep the rifraff off?

This route is easily toproped. In fact, I have only seen one lead in the 6-7 time I have been there.

I haven't done but a handful of mixed routes so don't take my word for it, but I think this is harder than M5 for the conditions when the ice doesn't start until after the angle decreases to less than vertical.

Just as a heads up...As of last month the second pin (# 1 blade) is no longer there! I blew out the placement when I tried to replace it with a # 3...Sorry, but considering that the pin shifted with a slight test tap I would not have wanted to hang on it!!! Definitely a false sense of security at best! Too bad the water isn't flowing like it used to (down to the angle).

In response to Ben's post: the climb that is described here and all the pictures are for "Mixed Emotions" which Gillett calls M6 WI4+. "Mixed Feelings" is actually right near the fork in the trail after you get into the gorge. So, yes, it is harder than M5... but it might also be considered accurate for the grade in other areas, being huge holds really close together.

I want to know more about this new bolted route on Mixed Feelings. Who is Jack B.? I would like to hear from him about this. It sounds cool.

Re. recently reported bolting of "direct start" to Mixed Emotions and question about FA- I have seen Ryan Vachon lead the route several times with no gear to the traverse ledge and very lean gear through the seem/crack left of the ice (or into the left side of the ice in fat years). This line has been scratched up for years, but would guess it is not often lead....

There is no question that this variation to Mixed Feelings should and will be chopped.

It has been led several times using natural pro (pins and nuts) and so therefore making the bolts unnecessary but by placing the bolts with a motorized drill it allows the park service the excuse to come and ban other routes in the area.

The 3 bolt start is actually pretty good, nice moves although #3 is in a whonky spot. Chopping these bolts is only going to mutilate the rock and frankly I don't see how, now that they are in, these bolts offer any more visual impact than those placed tediously by hand, they are actually rather hard to pick out. Mind you I am not encouraging power-drill use in the Park or other wild areas where they are prohibited, indeed I heard at the time that the blokes who Bosched this thing could nay do it.

This is a good little crag so leave it be, as is...

Spanking and Stellar! Anyone should go lead it and then try to say it's M3, with a straight face. There's a free stubby in the snow under the dick-sicle if you can find it. I could not.